Venerable British wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd celebrated the
opening of their new office at Amoy Street on the 16th of April with a
tasting for trade and private customers. Simon Berry, Chairman and clerk
of the Queen’s Royal Cellars, was himself present, although noticeably
reticent when asked what Her Majesty prefers to drink. The new premises
includes a tasting room on the fourth floor, which will allow BBR to
move ahead with their expansion plans in Singapore. Mark Holguin,
Managing Director (Asia), shared that BBR plans to start offering WSET
accredited courses in Singapore up to the Diploma level, and hold
regular wine masterclasses similar to what they already do in the UK.
For those who feel that their wine habit cannot be satisfied by merely
drinking the stuff, BBR also acts as the Asia marketing representative
for VINIV, the Bordeaux-based company that enables clients to make their
own wine.
The tasting featured a selection of wines mainly from
Bordeaux and Burgundy, with a few odds and ends from other notable wine
regions such as Marlborough and Rioja. BBR also presented several
eponymous wines under the Berry’s Own Selection brand, which I found to
be very attractively priced. Hugo Thompson, Fine Wine Advisor for BBR
stated that these wines provided clients an introduction to a region and
were the best value in class. The key word here is value – by cutting
out advertising and middlemen costs, BBR can offer wines with an
excellent price to quality ratio, but they are not necessarily at budget
prices.
Tasting notes:
Berrys' United
Kingdom Cuvée, Grand Cru, Mailly – A non-vintage champagne made of 75%
Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Mailly.
Toasty and lemony with a fine bead and laserlike acidity. Complex and
weighty. At SGD71, it represents very good value.
Champagne
R&L Legras, Blanc de Blancs NV – Based in the Côte des Blancs,
R&L champagnes can be found on the wine list of several
Michelin-starred restaurants. This wine has an attractive nose of grassy
meadows, with barley sugar and lemon sherbet on the palate. Energetic
with a lovely mineral tension.
Churton Marlborough Sauvignon
Blanc 2011 – Organic certified and biodynamic. The wines are given at
least nine months aging on lees, plus a further six months bottle age. A
medium intensity nose offering sweet pea and passionfruit. Light bodied
with mouthwatering acidity. Not unsubtle, this showed more fruit and
lime than aggressive green notes.
Berrys' Meursault,
Guyot-Javillier 2010 – Made by Patrick Javillier, whose vinified his
first wine in 1974. A delicious powerhouse here, rich melted butter
exemplifying typical Mersault concentration and heft, against a floral
background.
Château de Puligny-Montrachet “Clos du Château”
Bourgogne Blanc 2011 – Lime and green plums with a hint of straw and a
stony finish. A “teenager wine” – lean, young and a bit abrasive.
Benjamin
Leroux Puligny-Montrachet 2010 – The young and incredibly talented
Benjamin Leroux has been touted as the natural heir to the late Henri
Jayer. This wine is from his own négociant business established in 2007.
The wine lives up to his reputation, displaying an elegant, floral nose
and a seductive palate packed with cashew and orchard fruit, tightly
wrapped in silky oak nuances. Fresh and zesty. A real stunner.
Château
du Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent 2010 – No, it’s not a typo, the name of
the producer is Château du Moulin à Vent, producing wine from the
Moulin-à-Vent appellation in Beaujolais. The winery was bought over by
the Parinet family in 2009. This is an easy-drinking wine with soft
tannins and a vibrant red fruit profile. A solid if unexciting example.
Domaine
des Croix Corton “La Vigne au Saint” 2009 – Medium ruby with pronounced
dark roast aromas. Soft and rounded on the palate, with quite a bit of
baby fat.
Churton Marlborough “The Abyss” Pinot Noir 2010 – Taken
from the “Grand Cru” site of Churton. Impressively floral with intense
notes of rose petal and violets. Concentrated and dense on the palate,
with medium tannins and high acidity. A serious expression of Pinot
Noir.
Berrys’ Good Ordinary Claret – Once again a solid example,
offering comforting toast, vanilla and blackcurrant fruit. I’d like to
pit this wine blind against a selection of classed Bordeaux and see
where it ends up.
Berrys’ Extra Ordinary Claret – Made from
vineyards in the Graves region of Bordeaux owned by Château Villa
Bel-Air, itself a property of the Cazes family. Offers more interest on
the nose than the Good Ordinary Claret, with savoury spice and light
vanilla notes. The palate was a letdown though, rather light-bodied with
bell pepper and metallic notes.
Château Petit-Figeac 2009 – An
early-maturing version of the grand vin Château Figeac, this wine also
contains a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon rather than Merlot
which is usually the case in St-Emilion. This is shown in the flavour
profile, which has masses of dark fruit and impressive structure.
Drinking nicely now but has the stuffing to go the distance.
Château
La Conseillante 2005 – La Conseillante keeps company with illustrious
neighbours such as Cheval Blanc and Petrus. The strength of the vintage
is evident in the fully ripe aromas, the concentrated fruit and fine
tannins. Steven Chan, BBR Fine Wine Advisor, compares the muscularity of
this wine to a young Arnold Schwarzenegger. Save this for truly special
occasions.
Château Sociando-Mallet 1996 – An overperforming Cru
Bourgeois property. Deep brick colour and a smudgy rim. Chocolate on the
nose, with the fruit just starting to show some age. Savoury on the
palate, layered complexity and fantastic length. At the peak of its
drinking window, showing what great pleasure mature Bordeaux can
deliver.
La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva “890” 1998 – The Tempranillo
grape variety continues to intrigue with its ability to produce
long-lived wines. At 16 years of age the wine displays an intense
bouquet of red cherries and vanilla ice cream, with a sweet note
reminiscent of Horlicks. Fully mature, with resolved tannins, freshness
and an easy balance. Outstanding.
BBR's Singapore stock list can be viewed here.