German Wine Trip: Mosel & Weingut Dr. Loosen

It's a bright sunny morning as we head off to the Mosel today, a distance of 90 km from Rheingau. I'm getting tired of the preset female voice on the GPS system and switch it to a male one. Lady J insinuates that it's because I refuse to take instructions from a woman.

The Mosel is Germany's fourth largest wine-growing region with around 9000 ha of vines predominantly planted with the Riesling grape. The extreme steepness of the slopes on which the vines are planted means that the traditional system of planting is on poles. This makes it easier for workers to navigate through the vineyard since they can move across rather than up and down. The soil tends to have a higher slate content than Rheingau. Saskia Prüm, winemaker at S.A. Prüm joked to us that German winemakers have as many words for slate as the Eskimos do for snow. Thus there is blue slate, red slate, grey slate, etc... all of which have a subtle influence on the style of the wine.

Besides its stunning wines, the Mosel is also home to Ernst Loosen, Germany's most dedicated wine ambassador and Decanter's chosen Man of the Year in 2005. When we met him, he had just returned from a trip to Malaysia where he visited the cabin crew of Malaysia Airlines and conducted a food and wine pairing of satay and Riesling. The man has restless energy, even during our sit-down tasting, where he alternated between getting the wines from his cellar, chatting with us and playing with his beautiful black dog, Diana.

Although his family had a tradition of winemaking, Erni almost chose archaeology as his vocation. The turning point came in 1986 when his father fell seriously ill and none of his brothers or sisters wanted to or were able to take over the reins. Erni had to choose between continuing his archaeology studies or manage the estate. Having made his fateful decision, history lost a dedicated researcher even as the world of wine gained a passionate advocate.

Dr. Loosen's top vineyards, of which there are six, are designated as Erste Lage according to a 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards. Unlike in Rheingau, this is an unofficial rating that is not recognised by German wine law. Erni throws up his hands when I ask him about the ongoing changes to the classification system, saying that "It should be simplified... it is already so difficult to explain it in the foreign market".

The Rieslings of Dr. Loosen, and of the Mosel in general, are very different from Rheingau Rieslings. The Mosel Rieslings have riper fruits like yellow peach and nectarine compared to the white peach and citrus notes of the latter. Conventional wisdom states that Rheingau produces Rieslings that have more body and richness, but I'm going to go out on a limb and take the opposite view. Certainly the cooler climate of the Mosel extends the growing season, meaning that the grapes have more time to slowly ripen on the vine and develop those exotic summer fruit characters.

I was completely blown away by the 2010 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewächs Riesling. The vineyard gets its name (Sonnenuhr means sundial in German) from a large sundial in the middle of the vineyard. The sundial is missing the number 7 because as Ernie puts it, "At that time, the shadow is in the shade so you wouldn't be able to see it anyway!" The soil consists of pure blue slate with a very thin, rocky topsoil. The wine was astoundingly complex, with layers of stone fruit, white flowers and honeydew notes surrounding an electrifying stony minerality. And gosh, the finish! So intense that it made it difficult to tell whether I had swallowed the wine or not. 

The 2010 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Grosses Gewächs "Alte Reben" Riesling is made a parcel of land containing the oldest vines of Dr. Loosen. The vineyard is comprised red volcanic and slate soils, which lends a slight note of earthiness to the wine. Alte Reben, which means old vines, has no common definition, but since the vineyards of Dr. Loosen are already very old to begin with, Erni reserves this term only for the very oldest vineyards which average over a hundred years.

For the 2.2 ha Erdener Prälat vineyard, the story goes that in 1066 the Bishop of Trier was kidnapped by robbers and held for ransom at a castle overlooking the Mosel vineyards. Unfortunately, the bishop didn't have too many friends, and no one was willing to fork out the cash to get him freed. Frustrated by the cost of feeding the bishop, the robbers threw him out of the castle, and he landed on the spot which is now known as the Prälat (bishop). Erni cheekily refers to this story as the reason why the vineyard makes "bloody good wine". The 2010 Erdener Prälat Grosses Gewächs "Alte Reben" Riesling has an enticingly aromatic, elegant nose of wet stone and a touch of spiciness. The palate was clean and precise with notes of melon and tropical fruit salad. This really is a wine that you'd want to lay down and track its evolution.

The 2006 Dr. Loosen Riesling Beerenauslese reveals Erni's marketing acumen. Faced with a large crop of botrytis-affected grapes and a market unwilling to pay premium prices for sweet wines, he decided to bottle the wine in 187.5ml sizes (quarter bottles). So instead of buying a full bottle of this rich, sweet wine, which would be near impossible to finish in one sitting, the smaller size allowed it to be comfortable savoured without any wastage. It turned out to be a hit, and sells especially well in airport duty free areas. The wine has intense aromas of honey, botrytis and freshly kneaded dough. Rich and concentrated fruit on the palate, but with feathery lightness due to the low 7% alcohol. It's a wine that can be opened and consumed at any time without risk of leaving a hangover.

Dr. Loosen wines are exported to 65 countries around the world, and in Singapore they are distributed by Hock Tong Bee Pte Ltd.

German Wine Trip: Rheingau Day 3

We received a pleasant surprise in the form of a phone call from Stefan Ress inviting us to visit his winery. We had made an enquiry to visit earlier but somehow the reply was lost, so we are extremely grateful that Stefan followed up on it. Balthasar Ress is one of the top estates of Rheingau, now in its fifth generation of family ownership with Christian Ress. The winery owns 45 ha of vineyards and produces around 350,000 bottles a year. It exports to various markets including North America, Scandanavia, Singapore, Japan and Malaysia. Stefan calls it "a small little globalised company".

We started off with a wine tasting, and quickly developed a headache trying to understand the complicated German wine classification system. In the Rheingau, producers are moving away from the 1971 Prädikat system and back to the traditional terroir-oriented grading. Officially, the system is only recognised in Rheingau, but other producers use similar terminology. In summary, if the wine is dry, and made from a vineyard that has been classified as a Erste Lage (Grand Cru), they can label it as a Erstes Gewächs (Rheingau only) or a Grosses Gewächs (rest of Germany). If the wine is made with residual sugar, then it will have the designation QmP, which stands for Qualitätswein mit Pradikät, and has six levels of ripeness from Kabinett to Trockenbeerenauslese. Many wine books will say that Kabinett wines are dry and that the QmP system is representative of ripeness at time of picking, not the sweetness of the wine. In practice, most of the wines that have the words Pradikätwein will be sweet, even at the Kabinett level. A good rule of thumb is to look at the alcohol level. If the alcohol is around 9% to 11%, that means that there is some residual sugar in it and it will taste sweet.

Balthasar Ress is one of the first wineries in the region to start picking grapes this year, but the last to finish. Accompanied by the friendly and energetic Stefan, we were able to taste grapes on the vine and observe how the pickers harvested. Each worker had two baskets, and healthy grapes were being sorted into one basket for the dry wines while bunches with botrytis (destined to become sweeter style wines) were placed into another basket. The vineyards looked very healthy. In recent times, producers in Germany have moved away from using chemicals in the vineyard to more environmentally friendly techniques. For example, Stefan pointed to a small brown capsule clipped every few rows. These capsules emit pheromones that confuse vineyard pests, preventing them from breeding and laying eggs.

Balthasar Ress stands as a model of innovation. They have a significant presence in the social media, and are constantly trying out new ideas such as their wineBANK, a personal wine storage facility that also doubles as a private tasting room.

Our next stop, the wine estate of Robert Weil, was undergoing extensive renovations to accommodate increased production. New winemaking facilities were being built as the current one had exceeded capacity. Robert Weil is one of the larger producers in Rheingau, with 80 ha under vine and an annual production of 600,000 bottles. Their top vineyards (Klosterberg, Gräfenberg and Turmberg) are located around the village of Kiederich. The picture below shows the soil difference in the three vineyards.

The design of the wine labels clearly indicates the style, varietal and vintage of the wine. Just like the wood panelled exteriors of the estate manor, the bottles have a beautiful aesthetic that make them visually appealing. This seems to be reflected in the quality of the wines, I feel that there is a clear precision and elegance in them. Wines from each vineyard have their own character; I found the Klosterberg quite fruity while the Turmberg had nervy acidity and a taut minerality, perhaps reflecting the higher percentage of slate in the soil. My favourite was the Gräfenberg wine, which had an abundance of white peach and floral notes with just the slightest hint of vanilla and richness.

German Wine Trip: Rheingau Day 2

Lady J - Wine critic, photographer and light sleeper

One of the most frustrating things that can happen to a blogger is probably losing a post. After typing out a summary of Day 1 of our German wine trip, Blogger threw up a technical error and I lost an hour of writing. I've since switched back to the old interface, so hopefully I won't lose any more posts. I'm thankful that the in-room WiFi is finally up and running so I don't have to keep running downstairs to use the lobby computer. The first day was so tiring that I knocked out the minute my body hit the bed. Lady J warns me that if I continue snoring tonight, she will have to use physical force to stop me. Apparently I'm louder than the church bells next door.

Our hotel, the Rüdesheimer Schloss, is in the heart of the Rheingau region, so it is easy to visit the wineries. Having a GPS system is a godsend as well, as it means that I only need to focus on driving (Germany uses right hand drive as opposed to Singapore where drivers are on the left side of the road). Thus when we mistook our appointment time for Schloss Johannisberg (it was supposed to be 1000 instead of 1030), we managed to get there speedily and were only slightly behind schedule.

I am pretty sure that the winery takes the breath away from anyone who visits it for the first time. Upon entering, you are greeted with neatly manicured gardens and stunning views of the vineyard. It is the first and oldest Riesling wine estate in the world. The cavernous cellar (lit by candles), houses row upon row of barrels made from forests owned by the winery itself. That they even control the source of the oak used for their barrels gives you an idea of how much attention they pay to every part of the production process.

The wines of Schloss Johannisberg show great finesse and complexity. Lady J calls them "elegant, with layers of fruit that gradually reveal themselves." The winery only produces Riesling, which according to director Christian Witte is a wine lover's dream but a marketing disaster due to the different styles that can be made from that single variety. Schloss Johannisberg uses a unique colour coding system to indicate the style of each wine. The top dry Rieslings are have a silver capsule with the words Silberlack printed on them. In Singapore the wines are distributed by Cool Climate Wines.

A distinct contrast from the lavish castle of Schloss Johannisberg is the house of August Eser, which was so small that we drove by several times without noticing it. Désirée Eser is the 10th generation winemaker there and the first female winemaker. She has been instrumental in modernising the labelling and packaging of the wine. The winery's 10 ha of vineyards are spread across 8 villages and 17 plots, most of which are classified at the Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru) level. 

Interestingly, the Grosses Gewächs symbol does not appear on most of her bottles. Désirée states that this is because if she were to price all her wines at the Grosses Gewächs level, it would put it out of reach of most people. Another distinction of the wines is that they make extensive use of the Vino-Lok closure, a glass based stopper that has the consistency and reliability of screwcaps. Plus it looks good and makes a satisfying "click" sound when being opened.

August Eser is about as traditional a winery as they come. Careful hand harvesting and slow, controlled fermentations yield wines with great finesse, and a lively acidity that makes the wines almost dance in your mouth. Eschewing foreign markets, most of the wine is sold domestically where they have a reputation for tremendous value for quality.

German Wine Trip: Rheingau Day 1

My German wine trip has begun! Lady J and I will be touring the top wineries of Rheingau, Mosel and Ahr over a period of one week. The arrangements were made by German wine expert Frank Kämmer, who has more wine qualifications than you can shake a stick at.

The flight from Singapore to Frankfurt was smooth and uneventful aside from some turbulence. We rented a car from Hertz at the airport and were soon on our way to the touristy town of Rüdesheim, a quick 45 minute drive away. I am the designated chauffeur for this trip, so Lady J can enjoy the wines while I only get to sip and spit. 

The first winery on our list was Josef Leitz. The winery has grown exponentially over the past ten years, from 6 ha to the current 40 ha. It has an annual production of 400,000 bottles. Historical documents trace the establishment of the winery all the way back to 1744, but it was only in 1985 when current owner and winemaker Johannes Leitz took over that quality started to rise. He says, "I dream about terroir, I want to show where the wines come from." 

The steep slopes of Rüdesheim

The majority of Josef Leitz's vineyards are located on the Rüdesheim hill at different elevations and on different soils. They have names like Roseneck, Kaisersteinfels and Drachenstein (Dragonstone in English). The highest elevations are the most prized as they receive warmth and sunlight during the day, and at night cold winds blow from the forests up north and create the large temperature difference that is responsible for the development of fruity characters in Riesling. Anyone interested in learning about the soils and layout of the Rüdesheim vineyards should visit the website. It is incredibly detailed and easy to read. 

Winemaker Johannes Leitz

It's not just the website that is well designed, the wine labels are also done up in a very modern style. None of that old-fashioned Gothic script here, instead there is the name of the producer, vineyard, vintage and perhaps an indicator of sweetness. Easy to understand and market. Johannes is a very savvy winemaker who is not only a master of his craft but also shows an understanding of the consumer. In Singapore, you can find the wines through Beautiful Wine. 

From a Sommelier's Viewpoint

Wine lovers (myself included) very often get preoccupied with the analysis and discussion of wine and pay less attention to the network of people that support this industry. Without wine writers, wine educators and sommeliers in Singapore, our appreciation of wine would be severely hampered. To gain an insight into what motivates those in the wine trade, I had a chat with Mohamad Fazil, Operations Manager/Sommelier of Vintry Singapore.  

Fazil represents a new generation of sommeliers in Singapore who are young, energetic and passionate about wine. He has a long list of achievements to his name, including winning the 2010 World Gourmet Summit Cantino Marabino Wine Scholarship and being one out of two Singapore-based sommeliers sponsored for the E'Sensual Pinot Central 2011 event. He is also highly active in the Singapore wine scene organising wine talks and promoting wine education. 

What set you on the path to becoming a sommelier?

Ten years ago when I joined the industry managing the wine cellar for Oceana Restaurant, I looked at the markups and prices of wine and wondered why people would pay for something so expensive. This curiosity inspired me to learn more about wine, but back then it was all on the job training; reading books, inventory management and talking to customers. In 2008 as the Operations Manager for Brasserie Wolf, I had the opportunity to take up formal wine qualifications such as the WSET and CMS. These programs are good for anyone looking to be a sommelier, because firstly, your qualifications are internationally recognised, and secondly, your education becomes more structured. Learning about wine really is a never ending process, and we have to enjoy the journey rather the focusing on the destination.

You've visited many wine regions around the world, such as New Zealand, Portugal, Italy... which has captivated you the most?

Each of them has their own specialty; they produce different wines. I first went to Margaret River, which was very Bordeaux-style with its maritime climate and choice of varietals. At that time, I didn't ask many questions as I was still very new to the world of wine. When I went to Sicily and Portugal, I had completed the wine certifications, so I was very keen to see what I had learnt applied in real life, such as the pruning methods, the different soils, and why they planted Chardonnay here and Nero d'Avola there.

I would say that Central Otago was an eye opener, because being such a young wine industry they have already achieved so much. The potential of wines from that site is amazing, in terms of quality and ageability. If you tasted a Pinot Noir from Wanaka, you'd think that it is at least the standard of a Burgundy Premier Cru. But they are not competing with Burgundy, they know that they are different and are striving for an identity of their own. The people are wonderful too; they are extremely warm and kind.

Do you have a favourite wine?

That's a very tough question for any sommelier! Our palates change with time, and what I liked five years ago is not what I like now. I used to like wines that were sweet, soft and low in alcohol, then I changed to wines that were crisp, acidic and refreshing. Right now I'm into Barolos and Touriga Nacional... big, bold reds. I would say that I am a still fan of Spanish and Italian red wines, and for whites I love Gruner Veltliners and oaked Sauvignon Blancs.

What do you think about the wine scene in Singapore?

The wine scene has changed tremendously in the past five years. Consumers now have access to Google and Wikipedia and are much more knowledgeable. They are taking pictures of wines they have tried and coming here and asking "Do you have this wine?" They want to know the difference between a wine from 2007 and 2009, and why the prices are different. It's something that is very exciting, because now you have a conversation going on. In the past, people were intimidated by the wine list and worried about mispronouncing the name of the wine in case they embarrassed themselves in front of their guests. But now the consumers are much more open, especially the younger ones. They start with easy drinking stuff like Moscato and Riesling, and as they come back week after week you can start opening the door for them to try other wines. It's a new challenge for the sommelier, because the sommelier has to be able to read their palate and recommend wines that match their preference.

Are there certain styles of wine which are more popular in Singapore?

Australian red wines are still the number one selling wines, because they are approachable and at a good price point. However there are a lot more wines coming into Singapore now, and I'm seeing a greater balance of demand rather than just a focus on one particular country. The shift that I would like to see is consumers trying out wines from the Middle East like Lebanon and Israel. These are places which have been producing wines for thousands of years, and their wines offer great fruit concentration and quality. There are also a lot of European wineries going to countries like China and India and investing like what they did in Chile and Napa. It's still at a very early stage, but you've got to start from somewhere.

What skills does a sommelier need to have?

There are three things that I think a sommelier needs to have. A sommelier must be knowledgeable and approachable. A sommelier may know a lot, but if he is unable to share it then I think it is quite sad. The most important thing a sommelier should have is humility. There's no point in bragging about one's skills or saying that I am better than you.

How do you select the wines for the restaurant?

There are a few steps in the process. We begin by identifying the number of wines we want to carry, because there is a limit of how many wines can be stored in the cellar. Then we look at the food menu, and determine the types of wine that will suit it. After that we look at price lists from wine suppliers and agents in Singapore, and start selecting the wines based on region and price point. Usually when we design the wine list we will separate it into categories such as style (sparkling, white and red), then according to the varietal. It's important to have a variety in the wine list so that if a customer wants to have, for example a sparkling wine from Brazil, you have it or can suggest something similar to it.

Creating a wine list is not as difficult as maintaining it. Maintaining the list is an everyday process, because the vintage may change, or a wine may be out of stock. When guests open a wine list, they expect that whatever is listed there is available.

Lastly, do you have any advice for people who are looking to enter the wine trade?

This trade is a continual learning process. Whether you are talking to someone, or opening cartons, or looking at a label, you are always learning and it makes you stronger. You have to take pleasure in this learning process, and the enjoyment of the learning is the reward itself. As they say, if you enjoy your job you don't have to work a day.

Alta Vista - French Winemaking in Mendoza, Argentina

Argentina’s wine industry is booming. In the first quarter of 2011, exports rose by 8% to 62.9 million litres, helped by resurgent demand in the United States and an undervalued peso. Although exports to Asia represent a small fraction of this, it is a segment that is rapidly growing, especially in China, which overtook Japan last year to become the biggest consumer of Argentinian wine in Asia.

Patrick d’Aulan, owner of Alta Vista, recognised the potential of Argentina early on. In 1998, Patrick along with the late winemaker Jean-Michel Arcaute set up Alta Vista in Mendoza, located on the far west side of the country. Bordered by the magnificent Andes mountain range and surrounded by a scorching desert, viticulture is made possible only through the use of an advanced irrigation system, which supplies crystal clear, pure water from snowmelt in the mountains.   

Alta Vista owns 205 ha of vineyards in Mendoza, planted primarily with red varietals, while their 1200 ha holdings in Cafayete are planted with the local Torrontés. Patrick describes the uniqueness of Alta Vista as being a combination of “the respect for the tradition and soils of Argentina with the winemaking of France.” The workforce composition seems to reflect this belief, as both winemakers Philippe Rolet and Matthieu Grassin are from France while the vineyard manager is from Argentina.

Export Manager Philippe Meurant (left) with Patrick d'Aulan

Patrick has leveraged his considerable financial resources to ensure that only the finest grapes go into the premium Alta Vista wines. In the vineyard, sophisticated satellite imaging (photos are taken every two days) show which plots are ripe enough for picking. As in the best vineyards of France, manual harvesting and table sorting is done to select only healthy fruit. An interesting point in the winemaking is that Alta Vista makes extensive use of small cement tanks rather than stainless steel tanks to ferment their top red wines. Also used by Château Pétrus, cement tanks are said to help maximise the fruit character while providing better aeration than stainless steel tanks.  

I was impressed with the quality of the reds, which were rich and concentrated without being jammy, and balanced with nervy acidity. Especially at the top tiers, these wines showed a stunning degree of complexity. The Torrontés was interesting, with clear varietal notes that make it quite different from other wines. People looking for an alternative to Gewurtztraminer or Sauvignon Blanc should try this wine. 

Alta Vista Classic Torrontés 2009 – A crossing between Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica, Torrontés is known for making Argentina’s top white wines. This example was enticingly aromatic, with notes of rose, white pear and talc. Suggestively sweet, but on the palate it is bone dry. A fresh, medium bodied palate with slight bitterness and steely notes. Ready to drink.

Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2009 – Fermented in stainless steel tanks with temperature control. 30% of the wine was aged in oak barrels for 6 months with bâtonnage (lees stirring) to add body to the wine. Clear pale lemon appearance with vanilla and lemon aromas. Pineapple, lemon and vanilla notes on the palate, with rather disjointed acidity although Patrick mentions that the 2010 is showing better.

Alta Vista Classic Malbec 2008 – Deep purple. A youthful, spry nose with notes of pencil shavings, black fruit, spice and plums. Full bodied with upfront fruit character.

Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2009 – A complex aroma of subtle red fruits with a hint of mint and floral notes, developing into mocha after about half an hour. Medium+ acidity, fine grained and soft tannins with savoury fruit, plum and toast. A structured and balanced wine.

Alta Vista Terroir Selection 2007 – Made from a blend of fruit from four vineyards, although the majority (75%) is from the Albaneve Vineyard in Campo de los Andes located 1100m above sea level. The grapes were hand-picked and fermented in small 110 hl cement tanks. A deep purple colour with aromas of black fruit, black plums and a touch of dusty oak. A rich, rounded palate, displaying black plums and chocolate notes, backed with fresh acids.  

Alta Vista Single Vineyard “Serenade” 2007 – Deep ruby robe. Pronounced intensity nose of black plums, ripe black cherries and fruitcake. Rich and concentrated fruit with chewy tannins. A wine for aging.

Alta Vista Alto 2006 – The Alto is Alta Vista’s top wine, made from a blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple with a fine layer of sediment. Developing, broody nose with notes of earth and black fruit. A structured, elegant wine with resolved tannins, high acidity and a medium+ finish.

Alta Vista is distributed in Singapore by Beam Global Asia Pte Ltd.

Shaw + Smith = Delicious Wine!

Michael Hill Smith wears many hats in the wine industry, among them as an international wine judge, wine writer and wine consultant. But perhaps his proudest achievement is the Shaw + Smith winery, jointly set up in 1989 with his cousin Martin Shaw. His annual luncheons in Singapore to celebrate the winery’s latest release are packed affairs attended by the cognoscenti of the wine trade. This year's luncheon, held at the Jade Palace Restaurant, featured four Shaw + Smith wines paired with a selection of dim sum.

Shaw + Smith is located in Adelaide Hills, a cool-climate region located thirty minutes away from Adelaide by car. I first visited the winery in January 2009 and was impressed by the quality and fruit character of the wines. Tasting the wines again reinforced my perception, despite the fact that 2011 was a challenging vintage. In particular, the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc was memorable for its pure varietal character and zingy acidity. Imagine a bowl of tangy passion fruit with fresh lime squeezed all over and you'll get an idea of how it tastes like.

During the past twenty years that Michael has been visiting Singapore, he’s noticed that there has been an “explosion in the interest, understanding and appreciation of wine in Singapore.” He commented that “In Australia, we are struggling somewhat because the younger generation is all drinking spirits, because they drink what their parents didn’t. Whereas in Singapore, you have the opposite; the parents are drinking spirits and beer, and the younger generation is embracing wine in a really exciting way.”

The increasing competition in the wine trade in Singapore means that producers have to find ways of differentiating themselves from the rest of the crowd, or risk disappearing amidst the multitude of labels on retail shelves. In particular, the big Australian wine companies are struggling to differentiate between the brands that they have. "In the old days," says Michael, "they used to pick a winemaker, and the focus of the brand was the winemaker. So if you tasted Seppelts, it was always Ian Mckenzie, if it was Penfolds it was John Duval.. so there was always a very likeable, very skilled winemaker who you liked and therefore you reacted well to whereas now, it's just a sea of wine."

Having a winemaker such as Michael, who is also Australia's first Master of Wine, at the helm certainly helps Shaw + Smith. In many ways, Michael is the public face of Shaw + Smith, and people come to the tastings not only for the quality of the wines, but also to hear Michael's opinion on all thing vinous. It really illustrates the two factors that come into play when choosing wine; the reputation and skill of the winemaker, versus the sometimes abstract notion of terroir. A discussion for another day perhaps.

Tasting notes:
Shaw + Smith Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - A pale, silvery lemon robe with notes of lime and passion fruit on the nose. A fresh and lively palate with mineral notes and intense fruitiness. Long and juicy finish. 2011 was an unusually wet and cool vintage, with above average rain in February and March. Winemakers had to contend with botrytis and downy mildew. Shaw + Smith was able to maintain quality by hand picking grapes which were not affected by disease.

Shaw + Smith Adelaide Hills M3 Chardonnay 2009 - The wine takes its name from the M3 vineyard which represents the owners Martin Shaw, Michael and Matthew Hill Smith. Pale straw colour. Lovely aromas of cashew, butter and citrus fruit. Medium bodied, silky texture with a lasting finish. The Adelaide Hills style of Chardonnay is a departure from the oaky, heavy flavours that dominate Australian Chardonnay. Clonal selection, whole bunch pressing and hand harvesting is done to produce wines of complexity and restraint.   

Shaw + Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009 - Deep ruby with aromas of dark chocolate and black fruit. A punchy palate with notes of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, graphite and a dash of white pepper. There will be no Shaw + Smith Shiraz for the 2011 vintage as the fruit was not judged to be up to quality standards.

Shaw + Smith Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2009 - Pinot Noir is often known as the heartbreak varietal because of its fussy growing requirements. This wine had varietal characters of raspberry and red cherry. Ripe, but with sufficient acidity to prevent it from being soupy. Shaw + Smith recently purchased the Tolpuddle vineyard in Tasmania, and will start bottling single vineyard Pinot Noirs from there in 2013.

Many thanks to Christine Wee of Monopole Pte Ltd for extending an invitation to this event.

In Celebration of Diversity

There can be few joys in life greater than having a delicious morsel of food brought to new levels by a flavourful sip of wine. The interplay of different tastes is like a marriage where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. In Singapore, we are fortunate that there is a vibrant dining scene. We may not have the unparalleled freshness of ingredients that Japan has, nor the mastery of sauces that the French are famous for. Rather, Singapore's strength lies as a confluence of cultures, a melting pot of diversity that lends richness and variety to the food we eat.

Take Keystone Restaurant, a newly opened dining venue in the heart of the Central Business District as an example. It bills itself as offering Modern European fare with a progressive twist. Singaporean chef Mark Richards has tried his hand at Thai, Middle Eastern and French cuisine, and uses various techniques such as spherification and dehydration to coax flavours out of his dishes. The menu, which changes every two to three months, feature seasonal ingredients sourced from Europe, Australia, the United States and regionally.

On the 12th of August Keystone played host to a wine dinner with winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda. Giaconda is located in Beechworth which is a three hour drive north-east from Melbourne. At an altitude of 400 metres, the climate is considered moderately cool with approximately 700 mm of rainfall annually. It has a miniscule production of 2000-3000 cases a year which, coupled with its fine reputation, has led wine critic James Halliday to term these as "super-cult wines".

Giaconda is a study in contradictions. The winemaking style is traditional, using wild yeasts, basket pressing and no filtration. Even the website, http://www.giaconda.com.au/, looks as though it was designed in the 1990s. In the business side however, Giaconda is a pioneer. It experimented early with online direct sales, and established an en-primeur system for selling its wines in Australia. Around a third of Giaconda's wines are now sold through its website.

The first course was Sarlat Foie Gras with pistachios, compressed pineapple and white balsamic gastrique. This ignited a discussion at the table on the ethicality of force feeding an animal, although I noticed that all the foie gras was duly finished. It was paired with the 2006 Aeolia Roussanne, a refreshing, citrusy wine with lemon pith notes. A tightly focused wine.

The next wine was surely the star of the evening, the 2006 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay. This wine was rated Exceptional, the highest level, in Langton's Classification of Australian Wine. Elegant and poised, the wine displayed a deft handling of oak that underlined rather than overpowered the fruit character. Rick felt that the wine was not showing as well as it should and would benefit from further ageing. Alongside this we were served Iberian Ham with passionfruit sorbet, mission figs and Tête de Moine (Swiss cheese). This dish showcased what a chef could do with high quality ingredients and a knack for balancing different flavours. The saltiness of the ham was perfectly complemented by the sweetness of the passionfruit sorbet, while the cheese served as a neutral palate cleanser.

Moving on to the red wines, we first tried a 2006 Pinot Noir from the Nantua Vineyard. A brilliant counterpoint to the Chardonnay, the Pinot Noir was expansive, fruity and aromatic. It reminded me almost of a New Zealand Pinot Noir, so ripe was the fruit character. This was paired with deliciously pink slices of Mair Cervena Venison with charred eggplant, black plums, shallot caviar and valrhona textures. The meat was cooked to perfection, and the eggplant exuded a wonderful smoky flavour that was accentuated by the Pinot Noir.

The final wines of the evening were a vertical pair of Shiraz wines from the Warner Vineyard. The 2005 vintage was more savoury and spicy while the 2006 displayed more ripeness, earthy elements and blackcurrant fruit. Rick is proud of making wines that "are not squeaky clean and commercial", and are different from year to year. 2006 was hotter and drier than 2005, accounting for the riper fruit. With these wines we were served Blackmore Wagyu Brisket with porcini & marrow jus, polenta, chinese broccoli and truffle egg fluid.

The let-down in most fine dining venues in Singapore is usually the service, but I was impressed by the attention to detail at Keystone. The staff addressed us by name and water glasses were refilled promptly and discreetly. There was no chaos despite having opened just a few weeks earlier, and the staff seemed to be genuinely enjoying their work. I even saw Chef Richards humming as he prepared the dishes.

It was interesting to see the ideological difference between Giaconda and Keystone. The former holds fast to traditional methods of doing things, believing that their product should be as natural as possible. The latter is akin to a mad scientist, gleefully experimenting with its product and adopting the latest technologies. Yet both are capable of delivering sublime culinary experiences, proving that passion and determination are the true magical ingredients.

Keystone Restaurant

11 Stanley Street

Singapore 068730

Tel: +65 62210046

Lunch: 1200h to 1500h

Dinner: 1800h to 2230h

Corkage policy: SGD42 per bottle

Monopole Pte Ltd is the exclusive distributor of Giaconda wines in Singapore.

Many thanks to Natasha Beh of Ate Consulting for extending an invitation to this event.

酒

Having some free time in Shanghai recently, I decided to check out the local wine scene and see what changes had occured in the past few years. In particular, I was interested to taste a Chinese wine (made from grapes, not rice) and see if there had been any improvements. I still recall the first time I tried a "Made in China" wine in 2006. It was a Dynasty Cabernet Sauvignon, costing around RMB40, or SGD8. Drinkable, but it lacked ripeness and had some distinctly un-winey notes. The palate reminded me of soya sauce and dried watermelon seeds.

Admittedly, Dynasty is on the lower end of the quality scale. Along with Great Wall and Changyu and Tonghua, these four producers are the giants of China's wine industry, accounting for 60% of market share. The wines are priced from  RMB30 to RMB50, although Changyu does sell a Selected Cabernet Dry Red for RMB73. In comparison, a Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia's mass market wine, retails for RMB125.

There are some Chinese producers who have achieved fame outside of China. Grace Vineyards (from Shanxi) and Silver Heights (from Ningxia) were favourably reviewed by Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW in September 2010 for Robert Parker's wine website. It is difficult to get these wines from the local supermarket though, so I headed to Ferguson Lane, a small cluster of shops converted from goverment buildings in the former French Concession.

There are two wine specialists here, Globus wine and Pudao Wines (formerly named Wine Way). The latter is equipped with an Enomatic machine which allows tasting of wines by the glass. Normally, one would need to purchase a membership card (RMB300 with RMB200 credit), but you can also ask for the "store card" which will allow you to pay for just the wines you taste. There are 8 whites and 8 reds available for tasting and the selection is changed every week. They also have a "wine of the week" which retails at just RMB1 for a tasting portion. The day I was there this was the 2006 d'Arenberg Stump Jump White blended from Riesling, Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. They stock two labels from Silver Heights, the Family Reserve and The Summit. Both are Bordeaux blends with a small proportion of Cabernet Gernischt, a varietal with murky origins unique to China. Unfortunately, both the wines had sold out due to extremely limited quantities, and so I went over to Globus wine.

Compared to Pudao Wines, Globus is more of a wine bar, with seating space and a food menu. The store manager, Leo, proved to be extremely knowledgable about wines and the wine industry in China. He explained to me that wine consumption in China is being encouraged by the government, because "the move towards drinking alcohol made from grapes rather than rice puts less pressure on rice crops, which are an important staple in China." While this has spurred production of wine locally (China is now the world's 6th largest producer of wine), much of this is poor quality and lacking in flavour. Imported wines attract a tariff of 14% on top of 17% value-added tax and 10% consumption tax. Says Leo, "The high taxes on foreign wines create little incentive for local wine producers to improve quality since they have a pricing advantage."

I asked Leo if he had any Chinese wine in his portfolio, and he recommended to me Sunshine Valley from Gansu province in northwest China. They make two red wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Pinot Noir. This was the first time that I had heard of Pinot Noir being planted in China, as it is a notoriously fickle grape, requiring careful handling in the vineyard and the winery. Most of China's wine production is red, and dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition to being an auspicious colour (white is associated with death in Chinese custom), red wines have a premium image and are able to command higher prices. "In China's market," says Leo, "you must have a Cabernet wine."

I thanked Leo for his time and paid for the Sunshine Valley Pinot Noir. Back at the hotel, I tried it with some roast duck, which turned out to be quite a pleasant match. The wine still lacked ripeness (in fact Leo had mentioned the herbaceous note) but managed to display some varietal character. At RMB200, there are better value wines to be found elsewhere.

There is tremendous potential for the wine industry in China, but development is uneven. Made in China wines still struggle with poor quality grapes and lack of winemaking expertise. Wine consumption in China is also at a fledgling stage. While many Chinese have the money and access to high-end wines, few understand how to appreciate it, instead mixing it with ice or soft drinks. I am heartened though by the expertise of trade people such as Leo, who have formal qualifications in addition to tasting experience. As most people find themselves in unfamiliar surroundings when entering a wine shop, it is helpful to have someone who knows the wines intimately and can make helpful suggestions. 

Addresses:

Pudao Wines
House 102, Ferguson Lane
376 Wukang Road
Xuhui District, Shanghai 200031
Tel: +86 21 6090 7075

Globus Wine

376 Wukang Road

Xuhui District, Shanghai 200031
Tel: +86 21 6466 8969

US$117,000 for a bottle of wine? Sweet!

These days, Christian Vanneque is looking like the cat that swallowed the canary. The sommelier and restaurateur entered the Guinness Book of World Records on 26th July this year when he became the owner of the world’s most expensive bottle of white wine, an 1811 vintage of Chateau d’Yquem that sold for US$117,000. Made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes infected by noble rot, Chateau d’Yquem ranks as the greatest sweet white wine in the world. Wine critic Robert Parker has the following tasting note on the 1811 vintage: “……The d’Yquem, with its dark gold color, awesomely intense, sweet nose, unctuous, thick, fabulous flavor extraction, pinpoint precision, and a finish that lasted a minute or more, is the kind of wine on which Yquem’s reputation is based. It was liquified crème brûlée – an astonishing wine…” Adding to its value is a Record of Inspection from Chateau d’Yquem that authenticates the design of the bottle as consistent with production methods used at that time.

Christian was transiting in Singapore last week en route from London to Bali, where the precious bottle will be displayed at his new restaurant, the SIP Sunset Grill in Seminyak.  At the grand opening on 1st August 2011, members of the public will be able to view the record-breaking bottle, albeit through a custom made bullet-proof, temperature and humidity controlled showcase. Even when displayed at a press conference in Singapore, the bottle was assiduously attended to by security personnel. This careful handling displays the reverence he has for the wine. Perhaps he also remembers the lesson of wine merchant William Sokolin, notoriously remembered as having broken the world’s most expensive bottle of wine, a 1787 Chateau Margaux valued at US$225,000.

What possesses people to pay such stratospheric figures for a bottle of wine? For Christian, the bottle represents a piece of history. He says, “1811 is a date that Napoleon was in power in France, James Madison was the President of the United States, Beethoven was writing the 7th, and Franz Liszt and Napoleon II were born. I always knew that I had Napoleon’s height, but now I know that I have something from his reign also.” 1811 also marks the year a brilliant comet appeared in the night skies; wine lovers claim that the astronomical entity bestowed wines from that vintage with extraordinary finesse and longevity.

The bottle was sold to Christian by the Antique Wine Company, a London-based rare wine specialist that was also responsible for the sale of the previous record holder, a 1787 Chateau d’Yquem. Its track record of selling fine wines since 1982 gave Christian the confidence to purchase the bottle. At the handing over ceremony in London, Stephen Williams (Managing Director of the Antique Wine Company) said that “Most days, we handle extraordinary transactions, but today is very, very special because this is such a unique, rare and valuable bottle of wine.”

Christian plans to open the bottle in August 2017 at the three Michelin-star La Tour d’Argent restaurant in Paris to commemorate the 50th anniversary since he started his career there as the Head Sommelier. It was at that very establishment that his love of Yquem came about, having purchased numerous bottles for the restaurant’s wine cellar. The guest list and menu for the dinner have already been planned out. He says, “A sommelier is not a collector, a sommelier is a wine drinker. This bottle was never purchased with the idea of investment in mind.”

That being said, Christian is already reaping rewards from his purchase. Newswires around the world have been buzzing about the transaction, and this has helped generate tremendous publicity for his new restaurant. There will no doubt be a long queue of people craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the famous bottle at the SIP Sunset Grill, and people who do not usually associate Bali as a place to drink fine wine will have to rethink their position. In fact, the SIP Sunset Grill will boast the largest and most comprehensive wine cellar in Indonesia when it opens. From a marketing perspective, the purchase has been a complete success.

As a judge in the 1976 Paris Wine Tasting, Christian witnessed a landmark event in which the superiority of French wines was challenged. However, his latest gambit shows that when it comes to prestige and resale value, Bordeaux still sets the standard. A thought that will surely make the wine taste all the sweeter.