Château Margaux Looks East

“If you want to succeed in China,” quipped Thibault Pontallier, “you either need to have a dragonboat on your label, or you need to get personal.” As the Ambassador in Asia of Château Margaux, Thibault has been hard at work getting to know the region and its people. His father, respected Margaux winemaker Paul Pontallier, dispatched him to Hong Kong in 2010, marking the first time that Château Margaux has had a permanent representative abroad. The appointment was followed last year by the creation of a business development role in Shanghai. The move has paid off – Asia now represents the largest market for Château Margaux.

The strategy of Château Margaux is a curious blend of upholding tradition while at the same time staying ahead of developments in the wine industry. So while Margaux rightly boasts about its 500 year history, it is also leveraging on technology to reassure customers about the authenticity of their wine by incorporating a unique “bubble tag” on each bottle. Each bottle also has laser code etching and a secured capsule.

Like the phoenix, Margaux has risen from ashes time and again. In at least two occasions, the owners were forced to relinquish control of the property – once during the French Revolution and again during the Bordeaux economic crisis of 1973. Its modern history was written in 1977 when Greek businessman André Mentzelopoulos bought the property from the Ginestet family and set about restoring the château and its surrounding vineyards. The Bordelais like to talk about terroir, the subtle link between the vine and its physical environment, but without the nurturing hand of the Mentzelopoulos family, plus a sizeable infusion of cash, it is likely that Château Margaux would occupy a less lofty perch that that upon which it currently sits.
From that exalted position, the wines of Château Margaux are able to command prices of more than a thousand dollars a bottle. The five highest-priced recent vintages according to fine wine exchange Liv-ex are 2010, 2009, 2005, 2000 and 1996. However, a poor vintage is less of a disaster than it was in the past due to three key developments. Firstly, advances in winemaking technology and knowledge of the vine have enabled producers to overcome deficiencies due to the weather. Secondly, the introduction of second or even third labels has enabled the First Growths to be more selective about the fruit that goes into the grand vin. For example, the 2008 vintage of Château Margaux represented only 36% of the annual crop. Lastly, the best plots of land in Bordeaux are less affected by adverse weather. Hailstorms are practically unknown at Château Margaux, while frost damage is significantly mitigated due to the vineyards elevated location near the river.
Other than the grand vin of Château Margaux, the winery also produces two other wines – Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux and Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux. Despite the similarity of their names, the Pavillon Blanc is the winery’s premier white while the Pavillon Rouge is the second red wine made from grapes that did not make the cut for the grand vin. As such, the quality of the Pavillon Blanc is stunning, a refreshing white that is so rich and complex it is difficult to believe that it is made up only of Sauvignon Blanc. No NZ grapefruit and lime here; the wine displays citrus, cream and white peach characters with a zesty lemon sherbet finish. Thibault shares that Japan has cornered the market for this wine, adding that “For Asia, this wine is perfect.” Production is a mere 1,200 cases annually and although the grand vin takes the limelight, Thibault says that it is the Pavillon Blanc that is more challenging to make due to the comparative fragility of Sauvignon Blanc.
What is it that makes Château Margaux so special? According to Thibault, the wine is all about charm and perfume. In contrast to perhaps Lafite or Latour, Margaux is a little lighter, a wine that develops in the mouth. This does not equate to a lack of complexity or ageability however. In fact, the two grand vins that we tasted over lunch could not be distinguished by colour despite being separated by a decade. The 1998 was beginning to develop tertiary notes of lea leaves and sandy earth, yet the fruit was still very much at the fore. “Very few wines can combine such power with such softness,” says Thibault. Starting from the 2009 vintage, Château Margaux has produced a third wine, called Margaux du Château Margaux. In theory, this should further improve the quality of the Pavillon Rouge and grand vin. The wine will debut in a limited fashion at restaurants in France and the UK this year.
I ask Thibault if there are plans for him to become more involved in winemaking at Château Margaux. “I still love meeting people,” is his reply. “Wine in China is incredibly exciting. Four years ago, China was like the Wild West, but now there is serious wine appreciation. You can’t fool the Chinese palate, their long culinary tradition makes them able to tell the difference between what is good and what is great.” His stint in Asia has seen him engage extensively with members of the wine trade and hold countless dinners with fans of Château Margaux. He lists roasted goose as an ideal pairing with the grand vin, while hairy crab and Pavillon Blanc are a sublime match.
There is a concerted effort to protect the image of a wine as prestigious as Château Margaux. Thibault says that “My job is actually quite easy – to say no to most people and to sell it to the right restaurants and distributors, people who will store the wine and serve it at the right temperature.” While this may smack of elitism, considering the quality and reputation of the wine, a glass of Château Margaux is definitely not for the everyday.
Château Margaux is distributed in Singapore by Wine Culture.

The 9th Annual Champagne Tasting with the Institute of Masters of Wine

 
Of all the wines in the world, champagne is undeniably the most recognisable. The word has even managed to enter mainstream consciousness as a proxy for living luxuriously, i.e. a champagne lifestyle. Fortunately, the 9th Annual Champagne Tasting organised by the Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) was not limited to millionaires, and non-members such as myself were able to attend. At a very reasonable ticket fee of US$60, it was a rare opportunity to taste some truly great champagne in one sitting. In fact, the IMW bills it as “the largest and most prestigious tasting of champagne in North America.”

As befits champagne, the tasting also featured some of the most beautifully designed bottles on the planet. Champagne is an industry built on attractive packaging, from the transparent, bulbous Ruinart Blanc de Blancs to the floral design of the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2004. Collaborations with fashion houses are de rigueur - Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld and Emilio Pucci are some of the names who have dressed various limited edition champagnes. The award for Best Dressed at the tasting went to the Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvée Rare” 2002, a classy, jet-black bottle with the label etched in gold filigree. On the other hand, the Taittinger Nocturne was perhaps a bit too avant-garde, with an ensemble that resembled a purple knockoff of Absolut Disco.

The tasting was held on the first floor of the Ferry Terminal Building in San Francisco, a setting that afforded a good view of the San Francisco Bay Bridge and plenty of natural light. Cheese and bread (supplied by Cowgirl Creamery downstairs) were on hand to cleanse the palate and stave off hunger while tasting. I was reminded of the old adage “buy on bread, sell on cheese”, a saying on how cheese makes wine seem more palatable and smooth. In the interest of judging the wines fairly, I stuck to plain bread when tasting – the downside of writing about wine!

Having obtained a list of the wines beforehand (fortune favours the prepared), it was clear that the top favourites would be in the vintage category, but as there was a Blanc de Blancs vintage category as well a tradeoff had to be made. Sadly by the time I made my way to the vintage champagne table several of the more popular wines had finished, including the Dom Pérignon 2004. As expected, the rosé and dosé (off-dry) champagne tables seemed less packed, reflecting the lesser interest in these two categories.

Although most of the famous houses of Champagne were present, the lineup also included a handful of lesser known producers such as Lamiable and Michel Loriot. Peter Koff MW, one of several Masters of Wine present at the tasting, stated that “There are some wines here that are quite highly rated but not that well-known.” The majority of the vintage champagnes were made from the top vineyards, or Grand Crus, of which there are only 17 compared to the next level of Premier Cru, of which there are currently 42. With over 80 wines on pour, the tasting was sure to have satisfied even the most die-hard lover of bubblies.

Tasting notes:

Non-vintage

Charles Ellner Cuvée de Réserve NV – Lean and incisive with green apple and light pastry notes. Dry and light bodied with good persistence. 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir.

Charles Heidsieck Brut NV – A blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay from around 60 crus. A high proportion of reserve wine lends depth and complexity. Generous and mouth-filling on the palate with a fine bead and notes of brioche and lemon. A very complete wine with a satisfying finish.

Eric Rodez Cuvée des Crayères NV – A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from vineyards in Ambonnay. Slightly cheesy nose that blows off after a while. Good breadth and intensity on the palate with notes of lemon peel.

Gaston Chiquet NV Brut Tradition – Gaston Chiquet is a grower-producer based in Dizy, run by brothers Antoine and Nicolas Chiquet. The wine shows fruity lemon and biscuit notes, mid weight with a creamy mousse and a slightly saline finish. The blend is 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir.

G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge NV – The house signature of G.H. Mumm, in which 25%-30% of the blend is made up of reserve wines. Displays citrus notes and high acidity, light and rather fizzy.

Michel Loriot Cuvée Réserve Blanc de Noir NV – An unusual find, both in the blend and in the winemaking. Classical music is played during the fermentation process, with the idea that the vibrations “act on the wine’s structure and help it to express all its perfumes and aromas during its ageing”. A Blanc de Noir, but from Pinot Meunier rather than the more ageworthy Pinot Noir. A reticent nose with notes of lemon and chalk on the palate. Pretty austere.

Vintage

Devaux Millésimé D 2005 – A lifted nose with notes of mint and eucalyptus. Quite unusual. Bright and mid-weight on the palate with lemony fruit. An equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1998 – A stupendous effort from the house, showing captivating aromas of honey, meal, lees and toast. Focused and intense on the palate, with baked citrus fruit and honeyed notes. Brilliant.

Lamiable Cuvée Les Meslaines Blanc de Noir 2007 – The youngest vintage champagne of the tasting comes from the Lamiable family based in the Grand Cru village of Tours sur Marne. The palate shows apple and honeyed notes, framed by fresh acidity and a firm structure. There is a lot of depth to this wine. 100% Pinot Noir.

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2004 – Elegant and lively with honeysuckle, biscuit and floral notes. Medium+ length. The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier.

Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvée Rare” 2002 – An example of classy packaging. Broad, rich and dense with generous fruit and lip-smacking smoky, toasty flavours. A lengthy finish. Is it too early to start stocking up for Christmas?

Non-vintage Blanc de Blancs

G.H. Mumm “Mumm de Cramant” NV – Made from a single vineyard in the Cramant Grand Cru and bottled at a lower pressure than normal champagne. Shows good fruit definition with a slight toastiness overlaying citrus fruit and white flowers. An interesting and well-made wine.

Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV – An assemblage of Chardonnay grapes from the Côte des Blancs and village crus. Fine and elegant, displaying biscuit and citrus notes and a fresh finish.

Krug Grande Cuvée – The house prefers this wine to be called a “multi-vintage” rather than a “non-vintage”, hinting at its premier status. With a pedigree as rich as Krug, expectations are high, and the wine does not disappoint. Oat crackers, bread and toast dominate the nose, while the palate is a complex knit of citrus fruit, honey, toast and hints of hazelnut. A wine that pulls you in and refuses to let go.

Pierre Gimmonet & Fils Special Club Millésime 2005 – Mostly from vineyards in Cramant, some of which are over 40 years old. A gentle and charming wine, approachable even at this early stage of its development, but showing real class and longevity.

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV – A rather light citric nose with elements of white flowers, honeysuckle and brioche. One of the lighter Blanc de Blancs tasted.

Vintage Blanc de Blancs

Ayala Blanc de Blancs 2005 – A blend of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant and Chouilly; three Grand Crus from the Côte des Blancs. Forward nose of yeast and wet straw with pear and citrus notes, fine and balanced on the palate with a gentle and elegant mousse.

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 – The nose displays notes of yeast, cotton, wool and ground meal. Superb definition on the palate, pronounced notes of smoke and toast with well- rounded acidity and a long, compelling finish. The patience of maturing this wine for over 15 years in cool chalk cellars has paid off handsomely.

Demière-Ansiot Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2006 – Light intensity on the nose with rather coarse bubbles. Seems a touch too sweet.

Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2006 – Still young and tightly knit, showing precise lemon and toasty flavours. Beautifully proportioned and balanced, with the lithe muscularity of an Olympic gymnast. The fruit comes from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Avize.

Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2002 – A subdued nose but plenty of richness and power on the palate. Creamy with soft effervescence and notes of lemon peel and pastry. The wine was aged for 9 years before release.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2004 – Fruit for this wine is sourced from the Côte des Blancs where Chardonnay reigns supreme. 5% of the wine was aged in new oak for 4 months. A rich, layered wine that is starting to show some evolution. Broad and mouth-filling with notes of smoke, toast, grilled nuts and citrus fruit. Excellent drinking now but shows incredible potential.

Rosé

Ruinart Rosé NV – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. White peach and red fruit character. Fresh and subtle.

Veuve Clicquot Rosé 2004 – Tangerine and red berry notes with a suggestion of toast. Very refreshing and balanced with good fruit concentration and persistence. The blend consists of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Dosé (off-dry)

A. Margaine Traditionelle Demi-Sec NV – Warm and rich with pear and sugar cane notes. Inviting and approachable.

Taittinger Nocturne NV – Despite the garish packaging, the wine is surprisingly quite charming, with notes of sweet Chinese pear and a long finish.

A Primer on Pinot

To judge by the packed crowd at the Pinot Noir Masterclass organised by local wine merchant Crystal Wines, market sentiment has firmly shifted away from the overextracted fruit bombs that dominated in the last decade. The grape that has all the limelight at the moment is Pinot Noir, a variety that has spread so widely across the world that it rivals Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in terms of recognisability. An unlikely turn of events and one that shows what secret masochists winemakers are, as Pinot Noir is one of the most persnickety members of the vinifera family. Its early budding makes it susceptible to spring frosts and it has the same resistance to fungal diseases and viruses as a new-born baby. Yet its enchanting perfume and ethereal silkiness make it the Holy Grail for wine devotees.

Chaired by Olly Masters, winemaker at Misha’s Vineyard, the guest panel was made up of well-known figures in Singapore’s wine scene including wine writer, educator and judge Lim Hwee Peng, and sommelier Gerald Lu. As Misha Wilkinson (owner of Misha’s Vineyard) put it, we would be hearing about Pinot Noir from several different perspectives – a person who makes Pinot Noir, a person who educates about Pinot Noir, and a person who selects and serves Pinot Noir. Not to forget a whole audience of people who drink Pinot Noir!

Featured wines included Pinot Noir from Burgundy, Chile, USA, Australia, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago, the latter three being from New Zealand. About the lineup, Misha commented that “It's not just a Pinot Noir masterclass but also about New Zealand's place in the world because we are representing three New Zealand regions in a global context.” We would be tasting the wines blind, but some hints were given by Olly, who pointed out that New World Pinot Noir had more overt fruit characters of red cherry, black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and plum while Old World Pinot Noir had more savoury and farmyard characteristics. With age, Pinot Noir tends to develop notes of mushroom and spice.

On pairing Pinot Noir with food, Olly stated that it is the most versatile of red wines as it matches with more food than any other. Thanks to gentle tannins, it can be paired with a variety of dishes including grilled salmon, lamb, venison, game birds such as pheasant and turkey, and even vegetables such as mushrooms. In a local context, I have found it an excellent match with roast duck and dim sum.

Tasting the wines blind had the effect of removing any preconceptions about the relative merits of each wine. In hindsight, the Burgundy was the odd one out, with barnyard and earthy notes that hinted at its origins. I found all three of the New Zealand Pinot Noirs excellent, with bright fruit and jewel-like intensity. The Oregon and Chilean Pinot Noirs led me astray, as I expected a more impressive showing from the former and vice versa.

Looking at the price points for these wines, one can immediately notice that Pinot Noir commands a substantial premium over other wines. Add to that the high markups that restaurants and hotels charge on wine and it can be difficult to sell Pinot Noir on-trade. Gerald also highlighted the challenge of maintaining the right temperature when serving Pinot Noir. “A bucket with ice and no water is the ideal way to bring a bottle of Pinot Noir to the perfect temperature of 14°C. The bottle should be cool to the touch and when poured into a glass it should condense a little but not to the point that the whole glass condenses.” Hwee Peng had the following advice for those looking to add Pinot Noir to their wine lists: “When it comes to inventory, you want to look for a Pinot Noir that shows well from now at the point of tasting until probably a year later, because a wine list changes every twelve months or so.”

It’s good news that Pinot Noir acreage is expanding worldwide, especially since Burgundy has now found favour in the Chinese market leading to the inevitable price increase. As the tasting showed, these New World regions offer remarkable quality at affordable (for Pinot Noir) price levels.

Tasting notes:


Maison Kerlann “Cuvee H” Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009 (SGD53) - Slightly musty and barnyard-like on the nose with notes of wet clay. Light bodied with soft tannins, lacking in primary fruit character.

Montes Alpha Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir 2010 (SGD50) - Leafy with sweet cherry notes, cinnamon and orange peel. High alcohol, giving an impression of sweetness, but well integrated. Expressive fruit and varietal character.

Domaine Drouhin Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010 (SGD93) - Slightly closed with notes of red cherries and oak. Shows freshness but on the whole lacking interest. The producer has a good track record though so perhaps this wine is going through a quiet phase.

Bindi Composition Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2011 (SGD93) - Noticeable vanilla, cream and woody notes, with boiled sweets and slight gaminess. Quite overt, thickly layered with a candied sweetness to the fruit. Lively acidity provides a lift to this wine and prevents it from becoming flabby. Very good.

Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 (SGD95) - Crushed strawberries and leafy notes framed by a suggestion of oak. Silky texture with apparent warmth on the palate.

Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 (SGD73) - Brilliant purplish crimson hue. Nervy acidity, layers of red fruits, strawberry and plums, exuding magnificent intensity and poise.  

Misha’s Vineyard Verismo Pinot Noir 2009 (SGD77) - An elegant and layered nose of cloves and small red berries gives way to intense redcurrant and raspberry notes on the palate. Showing gorgeous precision and length.

All wines available from Crystal Wines.

Singapore Corkage Fees

While the fine dining scene in Singapore has exploded in recent years, restaurant corkage policies remain somewhat murky. The right to bring your own wine to a restaurant, or BYO, remains a contentious issue, as it means that restaurants are unable to make profits from the sale of their own wine. It is not uncommon for restaurants to mark up the price of a wine to twice the amount or more of its retail price.

The following list details the corkage policies of various fine dining restaurants in Singapore (and is also available at www.thelocalnose.com/index.php/corkage-fees/22). In general, you’ll find restaurants serving Chinese cuisine to be more accepting of BYO, while some have instituted a 1-for-1 policy where corkage is waived for one bottle for each wine that you purchase from the restaurant. The latter allows the restaurant to earn a decent margin and also provides the customer with an opportunity to showcase that treasured bottle he picked up from some faraway country. 

Note that the charges below are subject to change. It is always a good idea to reconfirm with the restaurant when making a booking. Restaurants that have corkage free days or do not charge corkage at all are marked with a ✪.

Au Petit Salut (Contemporary French)
www.aupetitsalut.com
40C Harding Road
Singapore 249548
Tel: 6475 1976
CF: $50 per 750ml ($60 per 750ml on eve of / and Public Holidays)

Au Jardin (Classic French)
www.lesamis.com.sg
EJH Corner House
Singapore Botanic Garden Visitors Centre
Cluny Road
Singapore 259569
Tel: 6466 8812
Wine list: www.lesamis.com.sg/AuJardin_winelist.pdf
CF: $80++ per 750ml bottle

Blue Lotus Chinese Eating House (Chinese)
www.bluelotus.com.sg
31 Ocean Way
#01-13 Quayside Isle
Singapore 098375
Tel: 6339 0880
CF: $50 per 750ml (wine)

Brasserie Gavroche (Classic French)
www.brasseriegavroche.com
66 Tras St
Singapore 079005
Tel: 6225 8266
CF: 1-for-1

Broth (Australian)
www.broth.com.sg
21 Duxton Hill
Singapore 089604
Tel: 6323 3353
CF: $30 per 750ml (wine), $40 per 750ml (sparkling)

Brussel Sprouts (Belgian Beer and Mussels)
Various outlets
Wine list: www.brusselssprouts.com.sg/home/wines-champagnes/
CF: $30 per 750ml (wine), 1-for-1

✪Burlamacco Ristorante (Classic Italian)
burlamacco.com.sg
77 Amoy St
Singapore 069896
Tel: 6220 1763
CF: Free corkage on Tuesday, $30 or 1-for-1 otherwise

✪ Coriander Leaf (Pan-Asian)
www.corianderleaf.com
3A Merchant Court #02-03
River Valley Road
Clarke Quay
Singapore 179020
Tel: 6732 3354 
CF: Free corkage on Tuesday (à la carte dining only, for tables up to 8 pax, up to 2 bottles per table, other T&Cs apply), $30++ per 750ml bottle otherwise

✪Da Paolo Ristorante (Italian)
dapaolo.com.sg
80 Club Street
Singapore 069448
Tel: 6224 7081
Wine list: www.facebook.com/DaPaolo.Ristorante.ClubStreet/app_153284594738391
CF: Free corkage on Tuesday, $45 (wine & sparkling) otherwise

Da Paolo BistroBar (Contemporary European)
dapaolo.com.sg
3 Rochester Park
Singapore 139214
Tel: 6774 5537
Wine list: www.facebook.com/BistroBar.RochesterPark/app_117784394919914
CF: $45 (wine & sparkling)

Da Paolo PizzaBar (Pizzeria)
dapaolo.com.sg
44 Jalan Merah Saga
Singapore 278116
Tel: 6479 6059
Wine list: www.facebook.com/PizzaBar.HollandVillage/app_117784394919914
CF: $35 (wine), $45 (sparkling)

✪ De Classic Golden Spoon (Chinese)
62 Seng Poh Lane
Singapore 160062
Tel: 6536 2218
CF: Free corkage all week

Fat Cow (Japanese inspired Steakhouse)
www.fat-cow.com.sg
1 Orchard Blvd #01-01/02
Camden Medical Centre
Singapore 248649
Tel: 6735 0308
CF: $50 per 750ml bottle and 1-for-1

Garibaldi (Italian)
www.garibaldi.com.sg
36 Purvis Street #01-02
Singapore 188613
Tel: 6837 1468
Wine list: www.garibaldi.com.sg/menu.html
CF: $50 per 750ml bottle and 1-for-1

Gunther’s (Modern French)
www.gunthers.com.sg
36 Purvis Street, #01-03
Singapore 188613
Tel: 6338 8955
CF: S$70 for 750ml wine bottle / S$70 for a bottle champagne / Buy one from wine list and bring one free of charge

Iggy’s (Modern European/Asian/Australian)
www.iggys.com.sg
The Hilton Hotel
581 Orchard Rd
Singapore 238883
Tel: 6732 2234
CF: $50++ per 750ml bottle and 1-for-1

✪Imperial Treasure (Chinese)
Various outlets
CF: Free corkage all week

✪Jade Palace Seafood Restaurant (Chinese)
583 Orchard Road, B1-13
Forum the Shopping Mall
Singapore 238884
Tel: 6732 6628
Wine list: www.jadepalace.com.sg/wine.html
CF: Free corkage all week

Keystone Restaurant (Modern European)
www.keystonerestaurant.com.sg
11 Stanley Street
Singapore 068730
Tel: 6221 0046
CF: $55 per bottle (750ml) or 1 for 1

La Nonna (Traditional Italian country)
lanonna.sg
76 Namly Place
Singapore 267226
Tel: 6762 1587
CF: $35 per 750ml (wine), $45 per 750ml (sparkling/liquor)

Lawry’s The Prime Rib (Western)
www.lawrys.com.sg
333A Orchard Road
#04-01/31 Mandarin Gallery
Mandarin Orchard
Singapore 238897
Tel: 6836 3333
CF: $30++ for Standard Red / White Wine, $40++ for Sparkling Wine, Rose and Champagne (Per bottle) (January – October)
$40++ for Standard Red / White Wine, $50++ for Sparkling Wine, Rose and Champagne (Per bottle) (November - December)

Les Amis (Modern European)
www.lesamis.com.sg
1 Scotts Road
#02-16 Shaw Centre
Singapore 228208
Tel: 6733 2225
Wine list: www.lesamis.com.sg/LesAmis_winelist.pdf
CF: $80 per bottle and 1-for-1

✪Mamounia Restaurant @ The Screening Room (Mediterranean) 
www.screeningroom.com.sg/fivefloors.html
12 Ann Siang Road
Singapore 069692
Tel: 6221 1694
CF: Free corkage every Mon & Tue (à la carte dining only, for tables up to 8px; Up to 2 bottles per table; Other T&Cs apply)

✪New Ubin Seafood
ubinseafood.wordpress.com
#01-174, Block 27
Sin Ming Road
Singapore 575680
Tel: 64669558
CF: Free corkage all week

Pasta Brava (Italian)
www.pastabrava.com.sg
11 Craig Road
Tanjong Pagar
Singapore 089671
Tel: 6227 7550
Wine list: www.pastabrava.com.sg/menu/pasta_brava_wine_list_2012.pdf
CF: $30.00++ per bottle of wine (750ml) and $40.00++ per bottle of Sparkling/Champagne

✪Porta Porta Restaurant (Italian)
971 Upper Changi Gardens
Tel: 6545 3108
Singapore 507668
CF: Free corkage Tuesday to Thursday. Friday to Sunday $15.

Picotin Express (Pizzeria)
Various outlets
CF: $30 per 750ml (wine), 1-for-1

Rocks Urban Grill + Bar (Western)
www.rocks.com.sg/index.asp
2 Marina Boulevard
#02-01/02 The Sail @ Marina Bay
Singapore 018987
Tel: 6438 4404
Wine list: www.rocks.com.sg/bar_winelist.asp
CF: $30 per 750ml (wine)
 
Salt grill & Sky bar (Modern Australian)
www.saltgrill.com
2 Orchard Turn
ION Orchard #55-01 & #56-01
Singapore 238801
CF: $50 per 750ml bottle and 1-for-1

Saint Pierre (Modern French)
www.saintpierre.com.sg
31 Ocean Way
#01-15 Quayside Isle
Singapore 098375
Tel: 6438 0887
CF: $50 per 750ml (wine)

Senso Ristorante & Bar (Italian)
senso.sg
21 Club Street
Singapore 069410
Tel: 6224 3534
CF: $50 per 750ml (wine), $60 per 750ml (sparkling/liquor)

Skyve Wine Bistro (Modern European)
www.skyve.sg
10 Winstedt Road
Block E, #01-17
Singapore 227977
Tel: 6225 6690
Wine list: www.skyve.sg/the-bar/wine-list/the-charismatic-drinks
CF: $30++ for wine or $50++ for sparkling per 750ml bottle or 1 for 1

Spizza (Pizzeria)
www.spizza.sg
Various outlets
CF: $20 per 750ml (wine)

Sque Rotisserie & Alehouse
www.sque.com.sg
6 Eu Tong Sen Street
The Central #01- 70
Singapore 059817
Tel: 6222 1887
CF: $40 per 750ml (wine)/ $20 per 375ml (wine)/ $60 per 700ml – 750ml (spirits)

✪Table at 7 (Modern European and Gourmet Indonesian)
www.tableat7.com
7 Mohamed Sultan Road
Singapore 238957
Tel: 6836 6362
CF: Free corkage on Mondays, otherwise $30++ for wine or $50++ for sparkling per 750ml bottle or 1 for 1

✪Wild Rocket
www.wildrocket.com.sg
Hangout Hotel
10A Upper Wilkie Road
Singapore 228119
Tel: 6339 9448
CF: Free corkage on Tuesday, otherwise $25++ for wine, $35++ for sparkling, $50++ for magnums and $100++ for liquor. 

A Star Showing from Astrolabe

In the 1980s, New Zealand made a style of Sauvignon Blanc that won consumers over with its vivacious gooseberry and freshly cut grass flavours. Some even found the aromatic descriptor of “cat’s pee” to be an accurate, if unattractive, label for the wines. The best examples of NZ Sauvignon Blanc come from Marlborough, with Cloudy Bay being the most well-known producer there. In fact, many of the people who worked at Cloudy Bay went on to establish wineries of their own, such as Kevin Judd of Greywacke and Ivan Sutherland and James Healy at Dog Point Vineyards.

Astrolabe CEO Jason Yank

Astrolabe, another Marlborough winery, may not be as famous as Cloudy Bay, but CEO Jason Yank is on a mission to change that. The winery is targeting top-end restaurants and bars, which form around 80% of its market. Jason lists KU DÉ TA, Boomerang and Level 33 as some of the places where Astrolabe can be found. The wine is also sold in independent fine wine retailers such as Drinks & Co., which was the venue for an Astrolabe wine tasting on the 15th of August.
 

Astrolabe was started in 1996 by winemaker Simon Waghorn together with his wife and a couple of close friends. The winery was named after a navigational device used to determine latitude based on the position of the stars, and even the winery’s logo is based on a motif of the instrument. The name also appealed to Simon for its connotations of exploration and discovery. 

Jason explains that Astrolabe strives to focus on sub-regionality, which is reflected in the “Valleys” range. These wines show the characteristics of individual sites, and when blended together form the base for the “Province” wines, Astrolabe’s classic range which exemplify typical Marlborough flavours. Offbeat wines are to be found in the “Vineyards” range, which serve as a creative outlet for Simon’s winemaking skills. The range of wines is an example of how the local wine market has developed, and just having one plain Sauvignon Blanc won’t cut it anymore. “Compared to other countries, Singapore has matured much faster due in part to the large expatriate community,” says Jason. “There was high demand for our other wines such as the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.” Jason credits Singapore for making Astrolabe a hugely successful brand, although he notes that competition here is high.
 
If the wines of Astrolabe are anything to go by, they indicate a continuing evolution of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Less vegetal, riper fruit characters and more complex flavours herald a new level of quality. This is especially crucial as the success of this category has led to the inevitable supermarket discounting to push sales. Jason is adamant on protecting Astrolabe’s image as a premium label. “I’m not looking for a big box chain discounter,” he says. “Brand equity is the most important thing for us.” 

Tasting notes:

Astrolabe Province Marlborough Pinot Gris 2012 – Intense and floral nose with notes of rose petals, pear and longans, dry and light bodied with medium acidity and length. Jason describes this as “a good food wine, and a good quaffing wine as well.” 

Astrolabe Kekerengu Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – Astrolabe is the only winery to source grapes from the Kekerengu Coast sub-region of Marlborough, which has limestone soils and a longer growing season due to cooling ocean breezes. A pungent and vegetal nose of ripe guava, mushy peas and butterhead lettuce, with the palate displaying further gooseberry notes. Considering that Sauvignon Blanc is usually released and drunk quickly this wine, having had three years to develop, represents an oddity. Might not be for all but is quite pleasantly exotic.
 
Astrolabe Awatare Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – Primary aromas of blackcurrant pastilles, fresh curry leaf and passionfruit. Clean and well-defined on the palate with cleansing acidity and a long, juicy finish showing herbal notes. Very vibrant and graceful. 

Astrolabe Province Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – This wine is the biggest seller for Astrolabe. Bell pepper on the nose, given lift by blackcurrant leaf and lime notes. Well balanced acidity with a taut, focused fruitiness. A solid and eminently enjoyable wine.

Astrolabe Taihoa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – It’s always dicey when winemakers take an aromatic variety such as Sauvignon Blanc and introduce it to oak. This wine though, rewards those who seek the intrigue of something not quite mainstream. It is still first and foremost a Sauvignon Blanc, with intense blackcurrant pastille and passionfruit on the nose with a slight vanilla richness. Lees stirring has added some flesh to the bony structure of the wine along with a silky texture.
 
Astrolabe Province Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 – A pale ruby-red hue with light notes of cherry and rosemary. Nicely integrated oak with soft tannins and medium length. Drinking well now.
 
Astrolabe is currently distributed in Singapore by Brand Connect Pte Ltd.

Wine and Food Pairing at Coriander Leaf

 

“Hawker food is in danger of dying”, warns Chef Samia Ahad of Coriander Leaf Restaurant. “You probably won’t see it in 20 years time because the new generation is not willing to take it up.” Should that dire prediction prove true, we should all be thankful then that we are living in a time when nasi lemak, char kway teow and murtabak are plentiful and affordable. 

In conjunction with the Singapore Food Festival last month, the team at Coriander Leaf took several iconic Singapore dishes and paired them with wines supplied by local wine distributor Grand Vin. The catalyst for the dinner came from Coriander Leaf’s Director of Operations Sidi Fikri, who worked with Grand Vin’s Sales Manager Chester Koh to pair the wines. “We wanted something simple and not too elaborate,” said Chester about the rationale behind the pairing. 

The Coriander Leaf Restaurant, set in the heart of bustling Clarke Quay, offers pleasing views of the river and plenty of natural light. As attractive as the view is, diners would probably be more interested in the open kitchen where Chef Samia and her team efficiently put the finishing touches on each dish. This concept allows Chef Samia to mingle easily with the crowd, sharing her culinary experiences in New York, London and Singapore.

Chilli Crab, Singapore’s most famous version of the crustacean, was the first dish to be served, paired with a Schlossgut Diel Riesling Kabinett Goldloch 2011. Chef Samia commented that the secret to this dish was as simple as chilli and Maggi tomato ketchup (no brand substitutions please!). Succulent morsels of crab meat were washed down by the off-dry Riesling, which had enough character to stand up to the intense flavours of the dish. Sidi and Chester had wisely chosen a wine that was relatively low in alcohol at around 8.5%, as alcohol tends to fan the flames of spicy food.

It was Singapore’s national dish, Hainanese Chicken Rice, which showed brilliant inspiration with the wine pairing. Conventional wisdom would have suggested white wine to go with white meat, so we were rather intrigued to see it paired with a Château du Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour 2010 from Beaujolais. Sidi explained that the dish, while looking deceptively simple, actually consisted of many different components like chilli, dark soya sauce, coriander leaf, rice and steamed chicken. He recommended that we mix the chilli and dark soya sauce together with the rice and chicken before tasting it with the wine. True enough, the dark soya sauce lent a sweet depth to the flavours of the chicken rice that matched perfectly with the weight of the Beaujolais.

An equally delicious match was the Glutinous Black Rice Pudding with the Pio Cesare Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2011. Chef Samia toned down the sweetness of the pudding, allowing the grapey flavours of the wine to take centre stage and blend harmoniously with the coconut cream of the dessert. The perfect end to a memorable journey of food and wine discovery! I couldn’t help but feel that if it had been Chef Samia that had been pitted against local hawkers in the recent food challenge, instead of Gordon Ramsay, a stiffer competition might have ensued.

If you missed out on this dinner, fret not as Coriander Leaf will be organising unique wine experiences on a monthly basis. In August, look forward to a fusion of entertainment, food and wine with a themed showing of Wong Kar Wai’s masterpiece In The Mood For Love at The Screening Room, and an Aromatic Wine Dinner featuring exotic wines and dishes created to appeal to the sense of smell. Click here for more details!

Bargains from the Languedoc

French wines do not necessarily need to be expensive. A visit to the Loire Valley earlier this year yielded a crop of interesting, well-made and very wallet friendly wines. Most of the wines I purchased were just over EUR10 (SGD17). More recently, at the cosy and convivial wine bar Pearl & Ash in New York, I enjoyed a delicious bottle of Beaujolais from natural wine producer Marcel Lapierre for just USD55 (SGD70). Compare that against wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy, the majority of which were priced above USD100 (SGD126).

For sheer range of grape varieties and styles though, it’s hard to beat the Languedoc region. Almost every grape that you can think of (and then some) has been planted here. The Mediterranean red grape varieties of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are well represented, while for the whites you have Piquepoul, Clairette, Rolle, and Viognier. The vastness of the Languedoc means that whatever type of wine you are looking for – still, sparkling, dry or sweet, you can be assured of finding an appellation that excels in exactly that style. 

Wein & Vin, a specialist in German and French wines, held a tasting recently to highlight some gems that they discovered at the Sud de France wine fair. I was particularly motivated to attend when I heard that one of the wines featured would be a sparkling wine from Limoux made from the obscure Mauzac grape. The locals in Limoux claim that their production of sparkling wine, made using the méthode traditionnelle, predates that of Champagne. Boon Heng of Wein & Vin says of this wine, “It is a game changer for the trade, but there must be an understanding of the difference between this wine and tank method wines.”
 
Boon also explained the proper technique of serving Languedoc wines. “They must be served at the correct temperature so that the alcohol does not dominate. Around 16°C is ideal.” Coincidentally, just a few days ago I had tasted some Languedoc reds and found the alcohol rather pronounced, but with the aid of ice buckets this time around the freshness was much more apparent.
 
Producer and tasting notes:

Château Rives-Blanques is owned by Jan and Caryl Panman who bought the property in 2001. The previous owner, Eric Vialade, is now the winemaker, with assistance from wine consultant Georges Pauli, technical director of Bordeaux second-growth Château Gruaud-Larose. 

Château Rives-Blanques Blanquette de Limoux 2010 – 90% Mauzac, with remainder being Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Hand-harvested fruit and made using the traditional method. Pale lemon, with apple cider, light grassy aromas and a hint of lemon sherbet. Shows delicate alcohol and a light body. Refreshing and persistent. Very good value. 

Château Rives-Blanques Crémant de Limoux Blanc de Blancs 2009 – A blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Citrus and honeydew fruit with hints of Mediterranean herbs. Shows some weight and presence on the palate. 

Château Rives-Blanques Cuvée Occitania Mauzac 2011 – Fermented and aged in oak. Medium gold robe, with a tinge of green. Fruit rather obscured by oak, mainly crème fraîche and vanilla notes. It would be nice to see more of the apple peel character of Mauzac. 

Château Rives-Blanques La Trilogie 2010 – The top wine of Château Rives-Blanques, with limited production. Made from separately vinified Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac. Fermented and aged in oak. Restrained dried apple, citrus and melon notes. Very elegant and layered, pinpoint balance with a long finish. Very impressive. 

Château Maris is based in Minervois La Liviniere, a sub-commune within the larger Minervois appellation. In 2007, the Languedoc AOC regional appellation was defined, placing La Liviniere at the top of the quality pyramid due to its poorer soils and slightly cooler climate than the rest of Minervois. The 33 hectare property is run by Robert Eden along sustainability lines. Their tagline is “Better for the Earth, Better for the Wine, Better for You.” 

Château Maris Organic Syrah 2011 – 85% Syrah with 15% Grenache. Aromas of spice, black fruits and game overlay a full bodied palate. Clean and pure with expressive Syrah character, balanced and refreshing. 

Château Maris La Touge Syrah 2011 – 85% Syrah with 15% Grenache grown on limestone soils and vinified in concrete and oak vats. Aged for 12 months in 30% new oak. A full bodied wine displaying notes of ripe blackcurrants lifted by spice and black pepper. A seductive wine with big and ripe tannins. 

Château Maris “Continuité de Nature” Carignan 2010 – Carignan is not widely regarded as a grape of great finesse, but here, old vines have imbued the wine with savoury complexity and concentration. Generous black plums, thyme and oregano tantalise the palate leading to a warm finish. 

Mas de Dames lies in the hills of Béziers close to the Mediterranean sea. The name, which translates to “farm of the ladies”, is run by Dutch winemaker Lidewij van Wilgen, who left her cushy job in advertising to pursue her passion in winemaking. She is often assisted by her three daughters. Yields are kept low at 35 hl / ha and the winery is on the path to organic certification. 

Mas de Dames “La Dame” Coteaux du Languedoc 2010  – 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Syrah. A deep ruby hue. Intense aromas with notes of meat, leather, tobacco and black fruits, with a creamy edge perhaps due to oak treatment. Soft and rounded on the palate but balanced with vivid freshness. Astoundingly well-made. 

Wines available from Wein & Vin. At the time of writing, only trade prices were available but estimated retail price for these wines should be from SGD35 to SGD65.

Sherry, Unfiltered

Gonzalez Byass En Rama Sherries

Last month at a dinner with some wine enthusiasts, I had the pleasure of tasting a style of sherry that has been earning rave reviews amongst sommeliers and wine critics, while simultaneously slipping under the radar of mainstream consumers. That it should go unnoticed is both unsurprising and somewhat of a pity, as sherry has never found much favour in Singapore. As a wine that can be drunk both before and after a meal, its versatility is also a source of confusion. Is it dry or sweet? What’s the difference between a Palo Cortado and an Amontillado? Can I drink the bottle of sherry that I bought for cooking? (The answer to the last, by the way, is no. Cooking sherry is a cheaper version of sherry that has salt and other additives to preserve its lifespan.) 

Sherry producers are not about to make things simpler. To the diverse list of styles can be added En Rama, a lightly filtered and unclarified Fino-style sherry that was first launched by Gonzalez Byass in 2010. The wine is taken from the middle of its cask during spring when the covering of yeast is at its thickest. Unlike other wines, fino sherry is aged under a protective blanket of yeast known as flor. As it feeds on nutrients in the wine, it also protects the wine from oxidation while imparting a yeasty aroma and flavour similar to bread dough. 

En rama perfectly captures the fashion of the moment towards a less interventionist winemaking style (e.g. think natural wines). While filtration minimises the risk of bacterial spoilage (from residual flor) and results in a more stable product, it also robs the wine of some character. Tasting a wine that has been bottled en rama is as close as you can get to tasting it straight out of the barrel. While en rama refers to the practice of bottling without any filtration, in practice a very light filtration is often employed to remove solid particles that may otherwise cloud the wine. 

Gonzalez Byass is the largest sherry house in Jerez, known for its Tio Pepe fino which can be found all over the world. The en rama version was made to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the house and made from a special selection of casks. Initially released only in the UK, its popularity encouraged the firm to double production in 2011 and export to other countries, although it is still very difficult to find as the wines are mainly distributed in the UK and US. The producer recommends that the sherry be drunk within three months of bottling while the character of the wine is at its freshest. 

Other sherry producers have been quick to take note. Bodegas Hildalgo released an en rama manzanilla sherry in 2011 under the La Gitana label, followed by Bodegas Lustau this year which released not one but three bottlings – two fino-style sherries and a manzanilla. The difference between a fino and manzanilla has to do with location; a manzanilla is made in the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda where the moderate temperatures encourage flor growth, resulting in delicate sherries with pronounced iodine and salty notes. 

What en rama sherries lose in terms of ageability, it gains tenfold in character. Compared to regular finos, they show more depth of character and complexity, a sherry on steroids. The Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana En Rama Manzanilla I tasted displayed savoury and saline notes on a broad, nutty palate, with a long and lingering finish. A youthful and exuberant wine that left me completely, if you’ll pardon the pun, flor’d. 

We can only hope that some intrepid distributor will import a few cases of en rama sherries into Singapore, but in the meantime, if you would like to dip your toes into this category of wines, Taberna Wine Academy has a fascinating collection all the way from refreshingly light finos to the delectably sticky Pedro Ximinez.

Sipsmith, the Craftsman’s Gin

“Try this”, said my friend, a true foodie who takes his 2 year old daughter to Michelin star restaurants. “It’s the best gin in the UK”. I look at the name on the bottle he hands me. Sipsmith. There is a picture of a swan’s head elongating out from a still pot on the label, next to a depiction of juniper berries with the words “Copper Stilled in London” below. The gin is clean and crisp, displaying enticing notes of juniper, citrus and spice. Having opened my eyes, I soon notice how ubiquitous this gin is around London. Heathrow duty-free. The fine wine retailer Lea and Sandeman. Upscale supermarkets such as Waitrose. Not only that, the gin has been winning awards left and right at international spirit competitions.
 
An admirable achievement for a business that started up just four years ago. While working in the United States, co-founders Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall were struck by the number of craft distilleries making spirits such as gin, vodka and whisky in small batches, by hand. Extending this movement to London was an incredibly exciting idea for Sam and Fairfax, and it seemed only natural that they focus on that most British of spirits, gin. “I always loved gin,” says Sam. “I think gin flows through the blood of every British person, and now, suddenly gin is becoming very popular again.”

The Sipsmith distillery is located in a quiet residential street in Hammersmith, London. It is so nondescript that I have to double-check the address before entering the small, 500 square feet premises. About a third of that space is taken up by Prudence, a copper pot still that stretches from floor to ceiling and burbles happily as she gently transforms neutral spirit into the aromatic product that is gin. The distillery is young, but it has already earned a place in the history books by being the first copper pot distillery to open in London in nearly 200 years. Sam proudly shows me the distiller’s license which took nearly two years to obtain due to the fact that no one in the government knew how to issue one. 

The Sipsmith recipe utilises classic ingredients – juniper berries, orange and lemon peels, orris, liquorice and angelica root, cinnamon and cassia bark, ground almond, and coriander seed. These botanicals are macerated overnight in neutral barley spirit to release their flavours. What differentiates Sipsmith from other gins in the market is the one-shot distillation process that produces smoother and more intense flavours. In this traditional process, each batch contains just enough botanicals so that the final product is a high-strength gin that only needs to be cut with water. Sam explains that most companies with larger production facilities will add in a greater quantity of botanicals to produce a concentrate that is then further stretched with neutral alcohol and water. 

The small scale operation of Sipsmith means that they can only produce 300 bottles a run. When I was visiting, the Sipsmith team had just received delivery of another still which they have christened Patience. Patience will be initially be used for the overnight maceration, freeing Prudence to concentrate on the distillation. Sam and Fairfax took the name Prudence from UK prime minister Gordon Brown’s call for citizens to be prudent during the financial crisis, an inside joke for as Sam puts it, “We didn’t think that there was anything very prudent about starting a business while the economy was tanking”. 

The gin category as a whole is still in the doldrums, with the lowest growth among international spirits according to just-drinks. However, as Sam points out, “Total global gin sales are going down, but a lot of that is really bad, cheap gin, mainly made in the Philippines. If you talk about premium gin and super-premium gin, that’s growing very, very fast and we are doubling sales every year.” Sipsmith has even launched in China, although Sam admits that it is a difficult market to crack. “China is the biggest consumers of spirits in the world,” says Sam, “but their spirits are very different. Right now our market is mainly expatriates in high-end bars. I think if you ask me the same question in five years (about sales), I’ll be able to say, now, it’s beginning to happen.”

Besides the London Dry Gin and Barley Vodka, Sipsmith also produces flavoured spirits such as a Sloe Gin, Damson Vodka and Summer Cup. The latter is a gin-based liqueur blended with earl grey, lemon verbena and cucumber. A characteristically British concoction, it is mixed with ice and lemonade and drunk during the warm summer months. There are also plans in the pipeline for a high strength gin scheduled to be launched next year.  

Note: You can find Sipsmith in Singapore thanks to the folks at 28 HongKong Street.

A tasting of VERY decent wines

I will admit to feeling a little trepidation at a recent wine dinner with my regular group. We usually have a theme to the tasting, whether it is by country, grape variety or wine style. This time around, the theme would be wines above a certain price point. The message on our phones sternly reminded us that the organiser was expecting "some VERY decent wines".

Price however, played only one part of the equation. With the number of wine distributors in Singapore, finding a bottle of expensive Bordeaux classed growth would only be too easy. Being wine geeks, there would ideally be something interesting about the wine as well. The bar with this group would be set pretty high, I knew, as most of them would have access to rare and unusual wines.

Fortunately, I had learned that Berry Bros and Rudd had recently set up an office in Singapore. BBR is the oldest wine merchant in the UK, with a huge selection at their main outlet at St. James's Street in London. Several years back, I ventured there to obtain a bottle of Château Palmer for a friend and spent far longer than I had intended to perusing their collection of wines and whiskies. 

The Singapore selection is more limited (although still extensive), but the good news is that they will ship anything from their UK offices to Singapore. Within the list I was delighted to discover some fine red Burgundies from Nicolas Potel's Collection Bellenum. These are wines obtained directly from the cellars of anonymous producers in Burgundy and relabelled under the Maison Roche de Bellene name. Thus although the vintage and appellation are known, the  producer can only be guessed at.

As expected, the dinner yielded a plethora of fascinating wines. Coincidentally, most were reds either from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Spain or the USA. My Chambolle-Musigny, Derrière la Grange 1er Cru 1996 was light and delicate, slightly dominated by acidity with typical Pinot floral notes and red fruits. Alas, the cork yielded few clues as to the producer, but from some sleuthing on the Internet, I have it on good authority that it was most likely from Domaine Louis Remy (since renamed to Domaine Chantal Remy). I am glad that it was one of the first wines to be opened, as the next wine, the Domaine Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée Le Clos Goillotte 2002 was much sturdier with rich notes of wood, coffee bean, cacao and redcurrants. The wine was bottled unsulphured, and showed amazing length.

Representing Spain were wines from various regions including Rioja, Ribera del Duero and a particularly interesting Bodegas Viña Magaña Torcas 2002 from Navarra. A Bordeaux blend with Syrah, the flavour profile was that of sour cherry, black fruits, spice and a curious note of incense that added an exotic touch. Delicious and very well-priced.

The wine that blew me away was the Beaulieu Vineyard 1966 Cabernet Sauvignon. Superbly integrated yet with still intense flavours and delicious tertiary elements, this wine shows the incredible longevity of Napa Valley wines. Upon tasting it, a fellow sommelier commented that it had the signature "Rutherford dust", a tasting term referring to the specific terroir of the Rutherford AVA. I do not think that it refers to tasting of dust specifically, although there was a wonderful earthiness to the wine. A rare treat indeed!

There were also some eclectic additions to the line-up such as a Texan wine and an unfiltered sherry (the last being discreetly slipped in by myself). As can be expected, the Becked Vineyards Claret 2005 was quite a big, burly wine, with a rich jammy sweetness and a noticeable charry note. Compared to regular sherries, the Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla "en Rama" was turbo-charged, with precise and clear saline notes and a long, nutty finish. Mix this with some oily olives and you are in heaven. Really a pity that sherry does not find much favour in Singapore.

The final tally of the evening, taken at around 3am, was a total of 23 wines.