The Rebirth of Bulgarian Wine

Photo credit: Publicist PR

What can we learn from the history of Bulgarian wine? Don’t put all your eggs in one basket? That the only constant is change? From being a major supplier to the Soviet Union from the 1970s until the mid 1980s, Bulgaria experienced a rapid descent into viticultural obscurity after Mikhail Gorbachev introduced anti-alcohol measures, followed shortly after by the collapse of the USSR itself. For a time, the UK showed interest in Bulgaria’s affordable exports of international varietals, but soon countries such as Australia and Chile showed similar competence at producing wines aimed at the lower end of the market. 

The Bulgarian Regional Vine and Wine Chamber held a dinner in Singapore on the 27th of January with the express aim of “securing a better position and reputation of European regional wines from Bulgaria”. Besides Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam were also included in this year’s Asian tour, which was funded by the European Union. I saw several familiar faces in the crowd, among them local sommeliers, wine writers and distributors. Wines for the evening were supplied by the Trakia Wine Consortium and Villa Yustina, both located in the Thracian Lowlands although there was also a Chardonnay from Yamantievs and a red blend from Kamenki. Petya Angelova, Trade Director of Villa Yustina, had an upbeat view on the future of Bulgarian wine, commenting that “Just like Bordeaux, we want everyone to know about Bulgarian wines.” 

Bulgaria is bordered by Romania to the north, Serbia and Macedonia to the west, Greece and Turkey to the south, and the Black Sea in the east. For most of Bulgaria the climate is continental, with hot summers and very cold winters. Increased privatisation has led to the growth of smaller wineries, some established with the expertise of foreign winemaking. Local grape varieties include Dimyat, Rkatsiteli and Misket for the whites, and Mavrud, Pamid, Melnik, Rubin and Gamza for the reds. Although the wines for the evening were pretty much a mixed bag, I did enjoy the two reds from Villa Yustina. The basic Villa Yustina Dry Red Cuvee 2012 was a kitchen sink blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah, which showed vinous character with red fruits and a solid backbone. Even more interesting was the Villa Yustina Monogram 2010, a full-bodied blend of Mavrud and Rubin with savoury black fruit notes and just a touch of vanillin. I found out later that the wine was aged for 14 months in 100% Bulgarian oak barrels. 

Does Bulgaria have a seat in the global amphitheatre of wine? Judging from the wines poured that evening, the industry is still in its infancy, with many steps to take before it can develop an identity and compete with countries that have had decades, and sometimes centuries, of continuous winemaking history. The most important market for Bulgaria is Russia, where the average price of a bottle is €3, but this clearly does not encourage the pursuit of higher quality wines. Inroads are being made into places such as Vietnam, China, and the United States, and it will take a few years to see if these efforts bear fruit. In any case welcome back, Bulgaria.

Lunar New Year #SgWine gathering

A sommelier, blogger and winemaker walk into a bar. Sounds like the setup for a punchline, but we were really at Praelum Wine Bistro for a #SgWine gathering. It seems that every get-together has a guest star, and that evening we were joined by Tai-Ran Niew, a former investment banker who has traded in his spreadsheets for pruning shears. His evolution to winemaker has been swift – after taking part in harvests in Sonoma and the Barossa Valley, he decided to make his own wine in Bordeaux through VINIV (you may remember it by its previous incarnation Crushpad). Did I mention that Tai-Ran is also a WSET Diploma student and a contributor to Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages wine website? 

The lure of putting your own identity and label on a bottle of wine is sure to tempt many wine lovers, but it does involve significant decision-making along the way. While VINIV allows you to make wine without buying land and investing in winemaking equipment, the vineyard sources, fermentation techniques, blending and label design are entirely up to you. Tai-Ran was extremely hands-on with this project, flying to Bordeaux several times to survey the vineyards and oversee the harvest. 

This being Bordeaux, it would be foolish to make a wine in the Californian or Australian style, but there are significant variations to how you want the wine to express itself. Tai-Ran comments that “If there is ever proof that it is the fruit that matters (in winemaking), this is it, because I have no idea what I’m doing.” I think that he is being a little too modest, because as I tasted the wine, it seemed to be to be having the structure of a Pauillac with the roundness of a right-bank Bordeaux, and I was elated when he said that fruit for the wine came from Pauillac and Saint-Émilion. A lucky guess, or terroir showing through? In any case, the result was very much in line with what Tai-Ran was aiming for. 

VINIV warns that winemaking can be “addictive” and it must be true, because Tai-Ran is already setting his sights on producing another wine, this time from his own vineyard in Oregon. The vines have just been planted and he plans to farm biodynamically, to “make the plant as healthy as possible so that it will deal with diseases by itself”. It will be a few years before the vine reaches sufficient maturity to produce grapes that can make wine, but if Tai-Ran’s Vigne de Niew is any indicator of his talent as a winemaker, then I am serenely confident that it will be worth the wait.

Tasting notes of the #SgWine gathering are as follows.

William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos” 2005 - Lean and incisive acidity with a satiny texture. Notes of pomelo, light vanilla spice, and honey lead to a long finish. Possesses elegance in spades. 

Tenutae Lageder “Porer” Pinot Grigio 2012 - Sourced from the biodynamically farmed “Porer” vineyard in Alto Adige at an elevation of 230-240m. Shows good fruit concentration with distinct pear notes and some floral hints. Medium length. 

Napa Cellars Carneros Dyer Vineyard Syrah 2004 - Served blind, this wine had us all guessing. I had the grape variety right, but went with Barossa Valley rather than USA. Showing some age in the garnet rim, the wine displayed a barbequed, toasty nose, with whiffs of caramel. Lots of black fruit on the palate, with medium acidity and a dense, chewy body. High alcohol and very warm, but with balancing acidity. 

Vigne de Niew 2010 - Very deep purple. An intense and aromatic nose, showing evolving notes of violet, incense and blackcurrant. Exceptional power and sleekness on the palate, with sticky tannins and a core of rich black fruit and cigar box. Tai-Ran states that he wanted to make a wine that needed more time before it was ready to drink; a leaner style with a longer finish. 

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2010 - Also served blind, and this time it was Lady J who correctly spotted the Shiraz element in the wine. A structured wine with black fruit and savoury, meaty notes, this full-bodied wine delivers exhilarating pleasure and is definitely one for aging. 

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - Intense blackcurrant pastille mixed with an odd burnt rubber note. Lacking in complexity and rather artificial.

A Peek Inside Burgundy with Jasper Morris MW

Those who have been following the wine news would have realised that it is not Bordeaux that has been hogging the headlines of late but it’s distinctively different cousin Burgundy. While the Liv-ex Fine Wine 50 Index (which tracks the prices of the five Bordeaux first growths) has been steadily falling since its peak in mid-2011, prices of grand cru Burgundy have been shattering auction highs. At the Hospices de Beaune auction last year, a record 6.3 million euros was raised. Interest has been particularly keen from Asia, and Romanée-Conti is now seen as the top wine brand in China.

So it was with great interest that I joined in a lunch with Jasper Morris MW, a specialist on Burgundian wines who spends the majority of his time shuttling between the UK and Burgundy. Jasper is the Burgundy buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine and spirits merchant, to whom he sold his wine import business to in 2003. He also wrote the Burgundian entries for the Oxford Companion to Wine and has published his own book on the region, Inside Burgundy (available both in print and digital editions). Nicholas Pegna, who manages the Singapore office of BBR and is also the Director for South-East Asia, said that Jasper’s contribution to BBR has been “absolutely transformational”, allowing BBR to buy not only the great names of Burgundy but also to identify those on the ground who will be the next superstar.

Yet this Master of Wine, who has successfully navigated the morass of appellations and vineyards that is Burgundy, is exceedingly humble and engaging conversationally. In his spare time, he tends to his garden and four cats (one of which is an exceptionally well-mannered stray). Perhaps this is why he gravitates more towards the hardworking and fame-eschewing region of Burgundy rather than the mercantile court of Bordeaux. Jasper himself says, “I love Burgundy because the people there are totally committed to what they are doing. They are much more interested in talking about their product because they made it themselves.”

In terms of grape varieties, Burgundy is easy to understand. Pinot Noir for red wines, and Chardonnay for the whites (Gamay, while used in Beaujolais in Southern Burgundy, is planted on such different soils that the region is considered more akin to the Rhone Valley). In terms of producers, vineyards and appellations, the situation could not be more complex. Most vineyards in Burgundy are divided between several growers, and thanks to the Napoleonic Code which mandated equal inheritance, the size of individual holdings has shrunk over the years. All this means that the highest rated wines from top producers are available only in miniscule amounts.

In a twist of irony, just as Asia has developed a thirst for Burgundy, supply has dwindled even further due to a series of poor vintages in which the vines were battered by hail and disease. This has caused prices to rise to stratospheric levels, a situation which may please merchants, but according to Jasper the people who make the wine are much less enthused. “The average Burgundy grower has not subscribed to the accumulation of wealth program,” he says. With a wry smile, Jasper adds that “after spending twenty five years persuading people to like Burgundy, I’m now asking them to slow down.”

Recent cases of fraudulent Burgundies which left a stain on the reputation of some wine auction houses have spurred BBR to take steps to ensure the authenticity of their wine. Not only are the bottles equipped with smart tags, BBR staff are also sent for fraud training to identify signs that point to a fake wine. Nicholas says, “People understand the value of well-stored older bottles and wine with impeccable provenance. We take on the accusation that sometimes we are comparatively more expensive with the reply that we are fanatical to ensure provenance. No bottle is worth more than our reputation.”

Nicholas also notes that it is difficult to base the price of fine Burgundies on historical data due to the scarcity of it. Limited quantities mean that a single enthusiastic collector may distort the price of a wine by bidding extravagantly on it. However, Jasper is quick to point out that bargains do remain in Burgundy, such as the Domaine Joliet Fixin Premier Cru “Clos de la Perrière” 2009 which retails for SGD80. Displaying a clean, precise nose with heady floral, spice and raspberry notes, the wine has been receiving much interest after sixth-generation winemaker Bénigne Joliet took over with the express intention of having it recognised as a grand cru.

Art and Wine Mix at Art Stage Singapore

A trip to Art Stage Singapore 2014 to view the limited edition champagne box designed by Dutchman Piet Hein Eek for Ruinart turned into an exciting evening exploring the works of international and local artists. The preview was well attended, yet due to the spacious layout of the Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre there was plenty of elbow room. Art from eight different countries and regions in Asia Pacific are laid out in a museum-like exhibition format. The fair boasts around 158 galleries featuring the works of over 600 artists.

Ruinart is the official champagne for Art Stage Singapore, and patrons of the arts had the opportunity to sip on Ruinart Blanc de Blancs as they viewed the installation designed by Piet Hein Eek. Composed of two wooden, trapezoidal modules arranged in the form of an ‘hourglass’ and filled with Ruinart Blanc de Blancs bottles, the structure utilises the same recycled wood that has become the designer’s hallmark. The design was inspired by Maison Ruinart’s ground-breaking decision to move from using baskets to wooden boxes to ship its Champagne in the late 18th century.

The installation can be viewed in the Art Stage VIP Lounge during the duration of the fair which runs from 16-19 January and is located at the Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention Centre, 10 Bayfront Ave, Singapore 018956. Bottles of the limited edition Ruinart Blanc de Blancs by Piet Hein Eek will be available for S$188 (750ml) and and S$388 (1500ml). Prices exclude GST. More details about Art Stage Singapore are available at the following website.

The French Cellar Opens Its Doors

How does a person with a PhD in biochemistry and an MBA end up running a wine business? For Vincent Morello, the simplistic answer would be that he’s French, and wine runs in his blood as much as Tiger Beer is part of the Singapore identity. However, the genesis for his wine affair really began while he was studying at the Essec Business School. As a member of the institution’s wine club, Vincent recalls many evenings where producers and wine experts would conduct wine seminars and share their knowledge.

The French Cellar, an online wine subscription website established by Vincent and his partner Eric Joubert aims to take the uncertainty and stress out of choosing wine. To achieve this they have enlisted the help of sommelier Nicolas Rebut, who is based in France, to seek out high quality wines at good value. Nicolas burnished his credentials working in Michelin-starred restaurants such as Le Louis XV in Monaco and Le Meurice in Paris. He is also the co-author of a book on food and wine pairing titled “Vins & mets : Une affaire de gout”. 

Members can select from three subscription plans and receive two bottles of wines every month from different regions of France, which come with tasting notes, region maps and food pairing advice (pictured left). For example, the November Cellar Icons selection consisted of a Vosne-Romanee "Les Genevrieres" 2009 and Nuits-Saint-Georges “Bas de Combe” 2007, both from acclaimed producer Domaine Leroy. The Tasting Voyage and Vineyard Gems series offer the opportunity to discover wines from producers that are relatively new or are based in less famous appellations. Pricing for the Vineyard Gems, Tasting Voyage and Cellar Icons start at SGD89, SGD155 and SGD1270 respectively, with slight reductions if a subscriber signs on for a longer duration. There is also an option to sign up for a monthly subscription that can be cancelled at any time.

Vincent hopes that people will be open to trying out something different. “Our idea was not to resell wines that are already available in Singapore. We wanted to bring in something new, which we can do because of Nicolas’s connections in the wine industry.” So far, it seems to be working. Vincent says that the most re-ordered wine was the 2011 Domaine Marcel Richaud featured in October. Hailing from the village of Cairanne in the Southern Rhone, the appellation is not particularly well known, but the winemaker is reputed to be one of the best in the region. Wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Languedoc-Roussillon are also available.

My tasting notes on a couple of the wines (kindly provided by Vincent) are available below, but why not judge for yourself? The French Cellar will be holding their second wine tasting on the 22nd of January at Artistry, 17 Jalan Pinang, Singapore 199149, from 7.00-9.00 pm. Check out the Facebook event page for more details.

Château Haut-Gazeau 2010 – Made from a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. The producer is located in Lussac Saint Émilion on the right bank of Bordeaux. Fruity and light with soft tannins, this wine is made for early drinking. Immediate charm with sweet, plummy fruit and minty notes.

Champagne Pannier 2005 – Made by the COVAMA cooperative, a union of growers. A promising nose of honey and wax, but the palate is bone dry with notes of green apple and lemon curd. A food friendly wine that is in its optimum drinking window now.

The Evolution of Château Kirwan

If her seven-week tour around Asia has been particularly rigorous, Mdm. Sophie Schÿler-Thierry does not let it show as she arrives for our lunch at the private dining room of Les Amis. Instead, she looks well-prepared and impeccably groomed in an olive green jacket and tortoise-shell spectacles. As Director of Communication and Market Development at Château Kirwan, Sophie is an experienced hand at promotion and public relations, a role that she created herself in the 2000s.

Not many people have the luxury of defining their own role, but Sophie is part of the Schÿler dynasty, who owns the Bordeaux negociant company Schröder and Schÿler. One of the firm’s shrewdest acquisitions was in 1829 when it bought Château Kirwan from the Guestier brothers. Initially, the wine was sold in Northern and Eastern Europe, but after the Iron Curtain put a dampener on exports, the firm crossed the Atlantic to find new markets in the United States, Canada and Japan.

Over an appetiser of tomato, mozzarella and sucrine salad drizzled with Provençal olive oil, Sophie shares that her next stop will be in Russia, where Château Kirwan will be poured at the Kremlin. Although the main market for Kirwan is still Europe, Sophie is keen to expand distribution. In her sights are Asia, India, the United Arab Emirates and Brazil. Production varies depending on the vintage. In 2009 hail reduced the crop by 35%, yielding only 6,250 cases, while production for the 2010 vintage stood at 14,500 cases. On average, around 170,000 bottles are produced annually, a third of which goes to the second wine, Charmes de Kirwan. Sophie likens the process of making wine to “raising a baby every year – a lot of work but also a lot of joy.”

Interest in Kirwan rose in the 1990s with the appointment of Michel Rolland as a wine consultant. Those of us present at the lunch had the good fortune to taste three vintages made by the celebrated oenologist, which displayed a balance between firm structure and depth of fruit. However, the château parted ways with Michel Rolland in 2007, feeling that his signature style was obscuring the spirit of the appellation. “There was an over exuberance of wood in the 1990s,” says Sophie. “Right now we use five different types of barrels from five different suppliers, but we are always experimenting with two or three others.”

Since 2007, the general management of Kirwan has been the responsibility of Philippe Delfault, previously the technical director at Château Palmer. “Château Kirwan has so much to say,” explains Sophie. “We needed someone full-time on the ground.” In 2008, an in-depth soil analysis was carried out to derive a better understanding of the potential of each plot. In turn, this allows Kirwan to tailor the grape variety to soil type. Clay soils for the Merlot, gravel mixed with a moderate amount of clay for the Cabernet Sauvignon, and deep gravel soils to bring out the best of the Petit Verdot. There is a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot in the grand vin, while Charmes de Kirwan has more Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Philippe is aided by Jacques and Eric Boissenot, recently described by The Drinks Business magazine as “the most influential wine consultants you’ve never heard of”. The father and son team advise on the blending process to highlight the purest expression of the terroir. Sophie compares the process to Van Gogh selecting the colours for a masterpiece, saying that it is critical to achieving the final result. Each grape and plot contributes something different to the grand vin – she gives the example of Petit Verdot as giving the wine colour and a note of spice that endears it to mildly spicy dishes.

I was asked at the lunch which wine showed the best, and it was a difficult question to answer. Sophie had been especially generous in showing us wines that were from very good to great vintages, and all lovely to drink now. The evolution in wine style since Philippe Delfault took over is subtle but definite, more apparent in recent vintages such as the 2010. The wines are more restrained, showing greater aromatic complexity and elegance. The high quality is testament to the painstaking management of individual parcels and strict fruit selection. While there have been some changes along the way, there is now a sense of surety at Kirwan in what they want their wines to express and how to achieve the desired results.


Tasting notes:

Château Kirwan 2008 - Very deep ruby appearance. Toasty mocha on the nose with apparent oak, ripe and enticingly deep aromas with a hint of violets. Palate shows blueberry notes with black fruit on the mid-palate, structured with plump fruit that pulls back and glides towards an effortlessly long finish. Tannins are soft and ripe.

Château Kirwan 2005 – A dry and hot summer allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to ripen fully with no threat of rot. The wine has a heady perfume with notes of violets and generous fruit. The power of the vintage is felt on the full bodied palate, which has formidable but ripe tannins. A staying finish. There is no hurry to finish this wine – it shows potential for further development.

Château Kirwan 2003 – Sophie stated that during the summer in 2003 there was “not a single drop of rain for nine weeks.” Nevertheless, the water retaining soils saved the vines and yielded a wine that is concentrated but with sufficient acidity. Very light sediment observed. The nose displays ripe black fruits with clay earth and milk chocolate. Palate shows some warmth and characters of game and incense, with a note of spice on the finish. Slightly raisiny but not jammy.

Château Kirwan 2000 – Another warm vintage, which allowed the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot to make their contribution to the blend. A deep ruby appearance with some sediment. Licorice, blackberry and light bell pepper on the nose, framed by oak, with a well-defined palate that ends with notes of spice and incense. Persistent length. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Vinum is the distributor for Château Kirwan in Singapore.

Berry Bros & Rudd Xmas Tasting

UK wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd will be having their Christmas portfolio tasting featuring a selection of over 30 key estates and producers. Details as follows:

Date: Wednesday, 4th December 2013, 6pm - 8.30pm
Venue: Raffles Hotel, Casuarina Suite A & B, Level 3, 1 Beach Road, Singapore 189673

To register, RSVP to enquiries@sg.bbr.com or call +65 66312717. Entrance is free of charge. This represents a great deal as tickets for the London tasting are going for £40.00.


Below is the list of producers for the tasting. 

Château Margaux Looks East

“If you want to succeed in China,” quipped Thibault Pontallier, “you either need to have a dragonboat on your label, or you need to get personal.” As the Ambassador in Asia of Château Margaux, Thibault has been hard at work getting to know the region and its people. His father, respected Margaux winemaker Paul Pontallier, dispatched him to Hong Kong in 2010, marking the first time that Château Margaux has had a permanent representative abroad. The appointment was followed last year by the creation of a business development role in Shanghai. The move has paid off – Asia now represents the largest market for Château Margaux.

The strategy of Château Margaux is a curious blend of upholding tradition while at the same time staying ahead of developments in the wine industry. So while Margaux rightly boasts about its 500 year history, it is also leveraging on technology to reassure customers about the authenticity of their wine by incorporating a unique “bubble tag” on each bottle. Each bottle also has laser code etching and a secured capsule.

Like the phoenix, Margaux has risen from ashes time and again. In at least two occasions, the owners were forced to relinquish control of the property – once during the French Revolution and again during the Bordeaux economic crisis of 1973. Its modern history was written in 1977 when Greek businessman André Mentzelopoulos bought the property from the Ginestet family and set about restoring the château and its surrounding vineyards. The Bordelais like to talk about terroir, the subtle link between the vine and its physical environment, but without the nurturing hand of the Mentzelopoulos family, plus a sizeable infusion of cash, it is likely that Château Margaux would occupy a less lofty perch that that upon which it currently sits.
From that exalted position, the wines of Château Margaux are able to command prices of more than a thousand dollars a bottle. The five highest-priced recent vintages according to fine wine exchange Liv-ex are 2010, 2009, 2005, 2000 and 1996. However, a poor vintage is less of a disaster than it was in the past due to three key developments. Firstly, advances in winemaking technology and knowledge of the vine have enabled producers to overcome deficiencies due to the weather. Secondly, the introduction of second or even third labels has enabled the First Growths to be more selective about the fruit that goes into the grand vin. For example, the 2008 vintage of Château Margaux represented only 36% of the annual crop. Lastly, the best plots of land in Bordeaux are less affected by adverse weather. Hailstorms are practically unknown at Château Margaux, while frost damage is significantly mitigated due to the vineyards elevated location near the river.
Other than the grand vin of Château Margaux, the winery also produces two other wines – Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux and Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux. Despite the similarity of their names, the Pavillon Blanc is the winery’s premier white while the Pavillon Rouge is the second red wine made from grapes that did not make the cut for the grand vin. As such, the quality of the Pavillon Blanc is stunning, a refreshing white that is so rich and complex it is difficult to believe that it is made up only of Sauvignon Blanc. No NZ grapefruit and lime here; the wine displays citrus, cream and white peach characters with a zesty lemon sherbet finish. Thibault shares that Japan has cornered the market for this wine, adding that “For Asia, this wine is perfect.” Production is a mere 1,200 cases annually and although the grand vin takes the limelight, Thibault says that it is the Pavillon Blanc that is more challenging to make due to the comparative fragility of Sauvignon Blanc.
What is it that makes Château Margaux so special? According to Thibault, the wine is all about charm and perfume. In contrast to perhaps Lafite or Latour, Margaux is a little lighter, a wine that develops in the mouth. This does not equate to a lack of complexity or ageability however. In fact, the two grand vins that we tasted over lunch could not be distinguished by colour despite being separated by a decade. The 1998 was beginning to develop tertiary notes of lea leaves and sandy earth, yet the fruit was still very much at the fore. “Very few wines can combine such power with such softness,” says Thibault. Starting from the 2009 vintage, Château Margaux has produced a third wine, called Margaux du Château Margaux. In theory, this should further improve the quality of the Pavillon Rouge and grand vin. The wine will debut in a limited fashion at restaurants in France and the UK this year.
I ask Thibault if there are plans for him to become more involved in winemaking at Château Margaux. “I still love meeting people,” is his reply. “Wine in China is incredibly exciting. Four years ago, China was like the Wild West, but now there is serious wine appreciation. You can’t fool the Chinese palate, their long culinary tradition makes them able to tell the difference between what is good and what is great.” His stint in Asia has seen him engage extensively with members of the wine trade and hold countless dinners with fans of Château Margaux. He lists roasted goose as an ideal pairing with the grand vin, while hairy crab and Pavillon Blanc are a sublime match.
There is a concerted effort to protect the image of a wine as prestigious as Château Margaux. Thibault says that “My job is actually quite easy – to say no to most people and to sell it to the right restaurants and distributors, people who will store the wine and serve it at the right temperature.” While this may smack of elitism, considering the quality and reputation of the wine, a glass of Château Margaux is definitely not for the everyday.
Château Margaux is distributed in Singapore by Wine Culture.

The 9th Annual Champagne Tasting with the Institute of Masters of Wine

 
Of all the wines in the world, champagne is undeniably the most recognisable. The word has even managed to enter mainstream consciousness as a proxy for living luxuriously, i.e. a champagne lifestyle. Fortunately, the 9th Annual Champagne Tasting organised by the Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) was not limited to millionaires, and non-members such as myself were able to attend. At a very reasonable ticket fee of US$60, it was a rare opportunity to taste some truly great champagne in one sitting. In fact, the IMW bills it as “the largest and most prestigious tasting of champagne in North America.”

As befits champagne, the tasting also featured some of the most beautifully designed bottles on the planet. Champagne is an industry built on attractive packaging, from the transparent, bulbous Ruinart Blanc de Blancs to the floral design of the Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2004. Collaborations with fashion houses are de rigueur - Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld and Emilio Pucci are some of the names who have dressed various limited edition champagnes. The award for Best Dressed at the tasting went to the Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvée Rare” 2002, a classy, jet-black bottle with the label etched in gold filigree. On the other hand, the Taittinger Nocturne was perhaps a bit too avant-garde, with an ensemble that resembled a purple knockoff of Absolut Disco.

The tasting was held on the first floor of the Ferry Terminal Building in San Francisco, a setting that afforded a good view of the San Francisco Bay Bridge and plenty of natural light. Cheese and bread (supplied by Cowgirl Creamery downstairs) were on hand to cleanse the palate and stave off hunger while tasting. I was reminded of the old adage “buy on bread, sell on cheese”, a saying on how cheese makes wine seem more palatable and smooth. In the interest of judging the wines fairly, I stuck to plain bread when tasting – the downside of writing about wine!

Having obtained a list of the wines beforehand (fortune favours the prepared), it was clear that the top favourites would be in the vintage category, but as there was a Blanc de Blancs vintage category as well a tradeoff had to be made. Sadly by the time I made my way to the vintage champagne table several of the more popular wines had finished, including the Dom Pérignon 2004. As expected, the rosé and dosé (off-dry) champagne tables seemed less packed, reflecting the lesser interest in these two categories.

Although most of the famous houses of Champagne were present, the lineup also included a handful of lesser known producers such as Lamiable and Michel Loriot. Peter Koff MW, one of several Masters of Wine present at the tasting, stated that “There are some wines here that are quite highly rated but not that well-known.” The majority of the vintage champagnes were made from the top vineyards, or Grand Crus, of which there are only 17 compared to the next level of Premier Cru, of which there are currently 42. With over 80 wines on pour, the tasting was sure to have satisfied even the most die-hard lover of bubblies.

Tasting notes:

Non-vintage

Charles Ellner Cuvée de Réserve NV – Lean and incisive with green apple and light pastry notes. Dry and light bodied with good persistence. 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir.

Charles Heidsieck Brut NV – A blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay from around 60 crus. A high proportion of reserve wine lends depth and complexity. Generous and mouth-filling on the palate with a fine bead and notes of brioche and lemon. A very complete wine with a satisfying finish.

Eric Rodez Cuvée des Crayères NV – A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from vineyards in Ambonnay. Slightly cheesy nose that blows off after a while. Good breadth and intensity on the palate with notes of lemon peel.

Gaston Chiquet NV Brut Tradition – Gaston Chiquet is a grower-producer based in Dizy, run by brothers Antoine and Nicolas Chiquet. The wine shows fruity lemon and biscuit notes, mid weight with a creamy mousse and a slightly saline finish. The blend is 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir.

G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge NV – The house signature of G.H. Mumm, in which 25%-30% of the blend is made up of reserve wines. Displays citrus notes and high acidity, light and rather fizzy.

Michel Loriot Cuvée Réserve Blanc de Noir NV – An unusual find, both in the blend and in the winemaking. Classical music is played during the fermentation process, with the idea that the vibrations “act on the wine’s structure and help it to express all its perfumes and aromas during its ageing”. A Blanc de Noir, but from Pinot Meunier rather than the more ageworthy Pinot Noir. A reticent nose with notes of lemon and chalk on the palate. Pretty austere.

Vintage

Devaux Millésimé D 2005 – A lifted nose with notes of mint and eucalyptus. Quite unusual. Bright and mid-weight on the palate with lemony fruit. An equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1998 – A stupendous effort from the house, showing captivating aromas of honey, meal, lees and toast. Focused and intense on the palate, with baked citrus fruit and honeyed notes. Brilliant.

Lamiable Cuvée Les Meslaines Blanc de Noir 2007 – The youngest vintage champagne of the tasting comes from the Lamiable family based in the Grand Cru village of Tours sur Marne. The palate shows apple and honeyed notes, framed by fresh acidity and a firm structure. There is a lot of depth to this wine. 100% Pinot Noir.

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2004 – Elegant and lively with honeysuckle, biscuit and floral notes. Medium+ length. The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier.

Piper-Heidsieck “Cuvée Rare” 2002 – An example of classy packaging. Broad, rich and dense with generous fruit and lip-smacking smoky, toasty flavours. A lengthy finish. Is it too early to start stocking up for Christmas?

Non-vintage Blanc de Blancs

G.H. Mumm “Mumm de Cramant” NV – Made from a single vineyard in the Cramant Grand Cru and bottled at a lower pressure than normal champagne. Shows good fruit definition with a slight toastiness overlaying citrus fruit and white flowers. An interesting and well-made wine.

Henriot Blanc de Blancs NV – An assemblage of Chardonnay grapes from the Côte des Blancs and village crus. Fine and elegant, displaying biscuit and citrus notes and a fresh finish.

Krug Grande Cuvée – The house prefers this wine to be called a “multi-vintage” rather than a “non-vintage”, hinting at its premier status. With a pedigree as rich as Krug, expectations are high, and the wine does not disappoint. Oat crackers, bread and toast dominate the nose, while the palate is a complex knit of citrus fruit, honey, toast and hints of hazelnut. A wine that pulls you in and refuses to let go.

Pierre Gimmonet & Fils Special Club Millésime 2005 – Mostly from vineyards in Cramant, some of which are over 40 years old. A gentle and charming wine, approachable even at this early stage of its development, but showing real class and longevity.

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV – A rather light citric nose with elements of white flowers, honeysuckle and brioche. One of the lighter Blanc de Blancs tasted.

Vintage Blanc de Blancs

Ayala Blanc de Blancs 2005 – A blend of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant and Chouilly; three Grand Crus from the Côte des Blancs. Forward nose of yeast and wet straw with pear and citrus notes, fine and balanced on the palate with a gentle and elegant mousse.

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995 – The nose displays notes of yeast, cotton, wool and ground meal. Superb definition on the palate, pronounced notes of smoke and toast with well- rounded acidity and a long, compelling finish. The patience of maturing this wine for over 15 years in cool chalk cellars has paid off handsomely.

Demière-Ansiot Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2006 – Light intensity on the nose with rather coarse bubbles. Seems a touch too sweet.

Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2006 – Still young and tightly knit, showing precise lemon and toasty flavours. Beautifully proportioned and balanced, with the lithe muscularity of an Olympic gymnast. The fruit comes from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Avize.

Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2002 – A subdued nose but plenty of richness and power on the palate. Creamy with soft effervescence and notes of lemon peel and pastry. The wine was aged for 9 years before release.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2004 – Fruit for this wine is sourced from the Côte des Blancs where Chardonnay reigns supreme. 5% of the wine was aged in new oak for 4 months. A rich, layered wine that is starting to show some evolution. Broad and mouth-filling with notes of smoke, toast, grilled nuts and citrus fruit. Excellent drinking now but shows incredible potential.

Rosé

Ruinart Rosé NV – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. White peach and red fruit character. Fresh and subtle.

Veuve Clicquot Rosé 2004 – Tangerine and red berry notes with a suggestion of toast. Very refreshing and balanced with good fruit concentration and persistence. The blend consists of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Dosé (off-dry)

A. Margaine Traditionelle Demi-Sec NV – Warm and rich with pear and sugar cane notes. Inviting and approachable.

Taittinger Nocturne NV – Despite the garish packaging, the wine is surprisingly quite charming, with notes of sweet Chinese pear and a long finish.