A Natural Revolution

A spontaneous get-together with some wine buddies saw us gathering at what must be the most audacious wine bar to open in recent years. Christened Wine RVLT, this bar was the result of one and a half years  planning by Ian Lim and Alvin Gho, both veterans with more than a decade in the food and beverage industry. Wine RVLT specialises in natural wines and bills itself as a “Real Bottle Bar” promising selections that are, in Ian and Alvin’s words, “living, raw, honest and natural”. It’s truly a labour of love, as both of them maintain day jobs and tend to the bar in the evenings.

Wine of the Month - October 2016

It was a great honour to be assisting Ying Hsien, Singapore's first Master of Wine, in the selection of wines for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix this year. The discussion on what wines to include was intense but on the whole I was pleased by how well they showed on the day itself. One of the considerations which the selection panel paid careful attention to was how the food, catered by Grand Copthorne Hotel, would affect the flavours of the wine. By itself, the Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo 2012 would have been rather tannic, but paired with food it mellowed considerably allowing the fruit to shine through, especially with the roasted Angus beef and selection of aged cheeses. Attendance at the race was down markedly from the year before, which was a pity, as the organisers pulled out all the stops in delivering a great experience. On the flipside, those who did go benefited from shorter queues and easier access to the big-name acts, whose enthusiasm did not seem diminished in the slightest.

Wine: Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo 2012

Tasting note: A single-vineyard wine made from the Nebbiolo grape. The Marcenasco plot has a long history of cultivation and was already producing wine since the 12th century. This interpretation has the full-body and fierce tannins that one would expect from a Barolo, leading with classic aromas of tar, licorice and violets. The palate shows an easy harmony, following on with notes of dried fruits and bitter cherry that add a savoury element to the wine. A very well-balanced effort.

A Rosé Fit for Angels

Producer: Château d’Esclans

Is it time for rosés in Singapore to bloom? Statistics from the Vinexpo/IWSR market study this year revealed that sales of rosé wine here grew by 24.2% between 2019 and 2014. However this was from an extremely low base and rosé still represents a drop in the ocean compared with sales of white and red wine (an exception being in the sparkling wine category where rosé champagne is doing quite well). “People in Asia are maybe five to ten years late to rosé,” asserts Alex Diard, Brand Ambassador for Château d’Esclans. “Now in Europe, and even in UK and the US, rosé is everywhere. It’s insane how many people drink rosé now – not only women, everybody is drinking rosé.”

The Largest Wine Region in Australia is One You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

Region: Great Southern



Think of Western Australian wine, and perhaps the region that comes to mind first is Margaret River, a disproportionate source of fine wine (it produces nearly a quarter of the country’s premium wine from about 4% of its total crush), or maybe Swan Valley, the oldest wine region in Western Australia. But there is another region on the up-and-coming, a vast and remote hinterland of vinous possibilities. In recent years those in the wine trade have been whispering about the potential of the Great Southern wine region, located at the southernmost corner of Western Australia. This roughly rectangular region spans 150km north to south and 100km east to west, making it Australia’s largest wine growing region in terms of sheer size. Yet for all its immensity, there are only around 70 producers here (by comparison Margaret River has over double that number).

A Taste of Ronda

Region: Ronda

Have you heard the one about a German, an Argentinian and a Swiss? It’s not the beginning of a pub joke, but the story of how an obscure region is attracting winemakers from around the world. Usually when tasting wines from a region new to me, I look for a degree of commonality, whether it is a grape variety or flavour profile. At this tasting though, put together by online retailer Wines of Ronda, the list of grape varieties included Viognier, Lemberger, and Zweigelt. Hardly commonplace grapes, and one would be hard-pressed to identify a region planted with these varieties as being Spanish. “The new taste of Spanish wine” was the tagline of the tasting, and very apt it is. Even though Spain is part of the Old World, it has shown tremendous courage in challenging the status quo (hello Ferran Adrià). Imagine tasting a wine made from French grapes planted in Spanish soil by a German winemaker.

Sub-regionality in Marlborough – Exploring the Southern Valleys with Auntsfield Estate

Producer: Auntsfield Estate

The feeling of déjà vu was strong at a recent tasting with Auntsfield Estate. Sub-regional characteristics in Marlborough – where had I heard that before? It was not until I examined the wine label that realisation dawned on me. The ‘A’ logo of Auntsfield Estate bears an uncanny resemblance to Astrolabe Wines, a winery also producing a range showcasing sub-regions within Marlborough. When I mention this to Auntsfield viticulturist Ben Cowley, he laughed that “Jason [the Managing Director of Astrolabe] stole it from us!”

Stepping Up to the Michelin Standard

Last month was a big month for Singapore on the F&B scene. I’m speaking of course about the launch of the Michelin guide here, the first time a Southeast Asian nation has been included in the guide. Twenty two restaurants bagged a one star rating, a further six received two stars and the coveted three star rating was bestowed upon Joël Robuchon at Resorts World Sentosa. It’s a testament to the cosmopolitan mix of eateries in Singapore, and will undoubtedly boost tourism and fan interest in the dining scene. Already some of the restaurants are reporting increased bookings, and the two hawker stalls that received a one star rating have seen snaking queues. Even restaurants that did not make it into the guide are benefitting from a halo effect, a welcome reversal from the first half of this year where business was rather slow.

Wine of the Month - June 2016

This month's WOTM was taken from a recent tasting. Kaiken Wines is the Argentinian arm of Chilean-based Montes Wines, headed by winemakers Aurelio Montes Jr. and Rogelio Rabino. This was an interesting bottle because it was made entirely from Cabernet Franc, touted as the next big thing from Argentina. Total acreage is still low - according to a report from Decanter earlier this year only about 700 ha of the country's 200,000 ha of vineyards are planted with this variety. Aurelio Montes Jr. says that Cabernet Franc represents the "feminine side of Argentina". Compared to Malbec, it is more "refined and elegant, a little lighter in the mouth but with lots of complexity".

Wine: Kaiken Obertura 2014 

Tasting note: The second vintage of this wine produced by Kaiken. Deep ruby appearance with Mediterranean herbs, tobacco, a floral accent and light gaminess. Flavours on the palate reveal red cranberry and dark fruits, with perfect ripeness. It all adds up to an elegant tapestry of flavours and a very good showing for this variety.

Sustainability and future-proofing – A tasting with Aurelio Montes Jr.

Producer: Montes Wines, Kaiken Wines

When Aurelio Montes Jr. crossed the border from Chile to Argentina to manage Kaiken Wines, he thought that he would throw a barbeque with the aim of getting to know his new neighbours. So he budgeted according to a typical meal in his native country; with some empanadas, side dishes and 250gm of meat per person. Within half an hour of his guests arriving however, all the meat was gone, and that was when he learnt; “If you want to invite someone home, you have to prepare one kilo of meat per person. Doesn’t matter if it’s man, woman, or child. And forget about salad.”

Wine of the Month - May 2016

The Hospices de Beaune is a hospital established in 1443 to treat the sick and poor funded by an annual wine charity sale that takes place on the third Sunday of each November. The wines are sold in barrel and aged by an appointed négociant. Each wine is dedicated to the benefactor who gifted the vineyard to the Hospices. This particular wine came from a barrel sold as the Pièce du Président, with proceeds going to the Carla  Bruni-Sarkozy Foundation and the idée Foundation which supports literacy and epileptic treatments respectively.


Wine: Hospices de Beaune Corton Grand Cru Charlotte Dumay 2012

Tasting note: Pinot Noir from Burgundy can often reach lofty heights, but this wine takes its place among the stars. Sublimely sleek, soft and perfumed, this wine flows around the palate with rounded acidity and a feather-light texture. The flavours are intense and energetic, showing spice, juicy redcurrants and sumptuous red cherries. Absolutely electrifying.