Chile Grows Up

Photo courtesy of Errazuriz

Chile, as a wine producing country, reminds me of a kindergarten kid who is perfectly happy playing alone in one corner. It is a country noted for its extreme isolation, due in large part to the surrounding geographical features that act as natural boundaries. To the north is the Atacama Desert, the driest in the world, while to the south lies the cold emptiness of Antarctica. The majestic Andes loom in the east while the blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean dominates the west. 

This isolation means that even though the history of wine in Chile spans several hundred years, starting when Spanish settlers arrived with the vine in the 16^th century, in a very real way the modern story of Chilean wine only started around the 1980s. Faced with falling domestic consumption and the removal of protectionist policies, winemakers were forced for the first time to consider exporting to international markets. Initially, the world did not pay much attention to this newcomer. What could a nation with outdated winemaking equipment, unexceptional varietals and cheap, rustic wine possibly offer? 

But there was more to Chile than anyone suspected. By not mixing around with the other kids, Chile was spared much of the nasty viruses and diseases that spread like a contagion in the 19^th century. In particular, Chile had never contracted the HFMD of the wine world - the scourge known as phylloxera. Warm, dry summers and plentiful water for irrigation ensure a healthy, reliably ripening crop. Within a decade, more than 10,000 ha of vineyards were planted with international varieties and substantial investments had gone into modernising vineyards and wineries. Chilean wine soon became synonymous with good value and varietal expressiveness. 

That image, while beneficial to producers of low to mid-priced wine, presents a difficulty to those who now want to position Chile as a producer of high quality, premium wine. One of the greatest challenges for Chile is to move away from the image as a producer of cheap and good wines. In the September issue of The Drinks Business, editor Patrick Schmitt stated that Chile “needed to focus on higher-priced grape varietals allied to high-quality regions.”

Francisco Baettig, winemaker at Errazuriz, is aware of the hurdles Chilean wine must face. “It takes time to achieve recognition,” he admits. “Once people know the country, they really love it. That’s why we travel.” The country’s generic body, Wines of Chile, has also been active in promoting Chilean wine regions and organising tastings around the world. And of course, there is Chile’s star varietal, Carmenere. Rarely found in its native France today, Chilean Carmenere produces deeply crimson wine with lusciously rich fruit. At a tasting of Chilean wines at the Decanter Asia Wine Awards, it was the flight of Carmenere wines that most impressed me with their consistent quality. 

Certainly, Chile lost many opportunities in the course of its turbulent political and economic history. But with energetic advocates and exciting new wine regions, the future of Chilean wine looks bright. 

Next up: The Wines of Errazuriz