Experiencing the lightness of Koshu

If you are establishing a winery in a region heretofore not known for producing quality wine, you could perhaps benefit from including the word “grace” somewhere in its name. One of the definitions of that word is a manifestation of favour, and it seems true that eponymous wineries have found a measure of fame and success. Grace Vineyards, in the Shanxi province of China, rocked the wine world by producing credible Bordeaux-style blends and is continuing its medal winning streak in international wine competitions. Even further east, Grace Winery in Katsunuma, Japan, has been pushing into international markets and trumpeting the merits of Japanese grape varieties such as Koshu. 

Although sounding like a noise you would make when suffering a cold, Koshu is certainly nothing to sneeze at. The grape is large and thick skinned, which helps it resist the wet and humid climate whereas other varieties would succumb to mildew and rot. The vine is extremely vigorous, and to manage the foliage producers often use an overhead vine-training system, a method known locally as tanazukuri. The Yamanashi prefecture (within which the town of Katsunuma is located), is home to almost all plantings of Koshu in Japan.  

I had originally intended to visit Grace Winery, but my timing clashed with their 10th anniversary celebrations for the Akeno vineyard and the facilities were closed. My contact, the ever-efficient Yuka Ogasawara from the promotional body Koshu of Japan, arranged a visit with two other wineries, Haramo and Rubaiyat. The train ride to Katsunuma from Shinjuku, via the JR Chuo line, took one and a half hours. Timetables can be accessed here (look under the heading “Limited Express trains on the Chuo line” and be sure to take note of whether your travel is on a weekday or weekend). Upon reaching Katsunuma, I was faced with a long queue of people waiting for taxis. Apparently I was not the only one who was interested in Japanese wine.

A meeting with Shintaro Furuya, winemaker and President of Haramo Wine, shed some light on the organisation of the wine industry in Japan. The Yamanashi prefecture is known for producing quality grapes, which can command higher prices when sold for eating rather than making wine, so growers are understandably reluctant to reduce yields. Large companies dominate wine production, although smaller growers such have a better reputation for quality wine. Due to the small size of vineyard holdings, producers rely heavily on bought-in grapes. For the smaller wineries, business continuation is an issue, as the younger generation is reluctant to get into the physically demanding work of winemaking.

Through decades of experience, Japanese winemakers have learnt how to extract the best qualities out of the Koshu grape. Maturation on the lees (the spent yeast added during winemaking) is common to add flavour and texture to the wine. At Rubaiyat, owner Haruo Omura explains that he uses hyperoxidation for the white wines to reduce the phenolic content and bitterness that result from the thick skin of the grape.  Fermentations are kept at low temperatures using a heat exchanger. Oak treatment is the exception rather than the norm for this variety. 

Koshu is a versatile variety. It is most commonly found as a dry white wine, although I have tasted (less impressive) sparkling and rose versions. The wines are light bodied with exotic perfumed notes reminiscent of Muscat, and a lean mineral streak on the palate. Shintaro-san recommends drinking within two years, five if the wine has been aged in barrel. There is something quintessentially Japanese about these wines. Perhaps it is the touch of refinement, so often found in Japanese cuisine, or the delicacy of the wines, with flavours that tease rather than stand out. 

By happy coincidence, I was able to taste wines from Grace Winery back in Singapore during the Wine Fiesta organised by The Straits Wine Company. By the time I reached the booth though, the Koshu wines had finished and only the reds remained. A sign of its popularity?

Winery profiles and tasting notes:

Haramo Wine
A small winery established in 1924 as a cooperative and then converted to a family-owned business in 1973. Annual production is around 70,000 bottles, with Koshu accounting for half the total. International varieties include Chardonnay and Merlot. 

Haramo Koshu 2010 - Very pale water white. Floral aromas with hints of grapefruit. The palate is dry and light bodied with notes of green apple and a slight bitterness. Unoaked. 

Haramo Chardonnay 2008 - Stewed vegetables aromas. Fruit salad on the palate with crisp acidity and a hint of oak. Medium+ length. 

Haramo Merlot 2009 - Medium ruby appearance. Red cherries and some vanilla on the nose. Palate is slightly restrained, with medium+ acidity and a medium body. An international and recognisable style with clear varietal characteristics.  

Rubaiyat Wine
Medium-sized operation with annual production of 160,000 bottles. Grapes are sorted by hand and fermentation is done in cement tanks. An impressive cellar, with old cement tanks (still with tartrate deposits on the walls) used to store wine in bottles. Look out for owner Haruo Omura’s eclectic collection of corkscrews. The winery name is taken from a set of ancient Persian poems that celebrate the pleasures of wine. 

Rubaiyat Koshu ‘Sur Lie’ 2011 - Pale water white with grape and lime aromas. Medium bodied with a mineral streak and lively acidity. 

Rubaiyat Muscat Bailey A 2010 - Muscat Bailey A is a local hybrid variety. Sweet, confected nose of red fruits and maraschino cherries. Off dry on the palate, light bodied with a profile of crushed berries. Decidedly an acquired taste. 

Rubaiyat Petit Domaine 2007 - A Bordeaux-blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon from locally-grown grapes. Nose exhibits a perfumed lift with slight stalkiness. Medium+ intensity with a good depth of flavour on the palate. An approachable, medium bodied wine with soft tannins.