Wine of the Month - April 2016

Hot climate = low acidity. That's one of the truisms of winemaking. Unless you're talking about Assyrtiko from the Greek island of Santorini, where the volcanic soil helps the grape maintain its acidity even as it ripens. Courtesy of a civilisation-wiping volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, the whole island is blanketed with this porous, sandy soil, making the wines a great expression of terroir.

Wine: Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2013

Tasting note: Crisp, citrussy and full-bodied, the standout character of this wine is its ability to combine high levels of alcohol with piercing acidity. There's a touch of honey to the crystal clear nectarine and mandarin orange fruit. Considerable undervalued, although getting hold of a bottle is as difficult as completing the twelve labours of Hercules.