Wine of the Month - October 2017

After a dalliance with French grape varieties which resulted in the Super-Tuscans and their many imitators, Italy has returned to focusing on her native varieties. The current vogue for indigenous grapes can be seen in the demand for fashionable Etna wines, top Brunellos and rich Amarones. This has been aided by improvements in winemaking and the reduction of yields, meaning that Italian grapes are producing wines of increasing interest and attractive individuality. I was at a gathering of wine lovers when the Sartarelli Verdicchio "Balciana" caught my eye (and tastebuds). The estate has dedicated itself to the Verdicchio grape variety in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC zone of Marche, the native home of the grape. This particular wine is made from late harvested grapes and according to Italian Wine Ambassador Chan Wai Xin includes a proportion of botrytised-affected grapes in the blend.

Wine: Sartarelli Balciana Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore 2014

Tasting note: The wine reveals a medium gold colour with a honeyed nose. The palate is dry and full-bodied, with notes of white pepper, honey, oranges and fennel underlined by bracing acidity. Lovely lush texture with a pleasing complexity.