Sold on Sake

A short holiday was spent exploring the city of Nagoya, and probably eating too much food than would be considered healthy. My host for the day expressed amazement when just an hour and a half after a multi-course lunch I pronounced my readiness for the next gustatory adventure. Could you blame me though? This was Japan, known for its rich culinary heritage and devotion to perfection, where a single wrongly placed fern in a delicately arranged dish could cause serious consternation.

No one should go to Nagoya without trying its famous Hitsu-mabushi, or grilled eel with rice. Served with a variety of seasonings including seaweed, green onions and wasabi, the simple dish can be eaten in one of three ways; as is, with a mixture of all three seasonings, or with a mixture of all three seasonings and clear fish stock. There are two convenient locations in the city to try this dish which are both in department stores, Atsuta Horai-ken on the 10th floor of Matsuzakaya (South Wing) and Bincho on the 8th floor of LACHIC. The latter has a window through which you can see the chefs preparing the eel.

Japan is also famous for sake, commonly called rice wine. This is a misnomer, as the production of sake bears more similarity to beer than wine. The main ingredient of sake is rice, of which the variety Yamadanishiki is the most popular. The rice has an internal starchy core called shinpaku that must be converted into sugar before the yeast can work on it. Before the fourth century this was achieved through a method known as kuchikami-sake, where rice or other cereals were chewed and then spat into a container. The amylase enzymes present in saliva converted the starch into sugar. Wild yeast present in the environment then fed on the sugar and turned it into alcohol.

Fortunately, modern production methods are more efficient and hygienic. The conversion of starch to sugar is now achieved through koji-kin, a black mold that is sprinkled onto steamed rice to make komekoji. Steamed rice, water and yeast are then added to make shubo, or yeast starter. The next step is the fermentation itself, or danjimoki, a three-step process of mixing the shubo with steamed rice, komekoji and water over four days. The mash is called moromi, which is then pressed, filtered, pasteurised and bottled.

There are two broad categories of sake which are futsu-shu and tokutei meisho-shu. Futsu-shu is ordinary table sake and accounts for the majority of sake in the market while tokutei meisho-shu refers to premium sake with special designations determined by the National Tax Agency. The specifications for tokutei meisho are shown below (with thanks to the National Research Institute of Brewing).



Seimai-buai refers to the degree of polishing the rice has received. For example, a seimai-buai of 40% has had 60% of the husk polished away. The outer husk contains proteins and oils that are not desirable to the production of delicate sake thus the more polished the rice, the more refined the taste. Beyond a certain amount (around 35%) however the taste of the sake does not improve and the cost rises significantly. The picture below shows the various degrees of polishing.

(photo credit: Hakushika Sake)

The Japanese take their sake seriously, so much so that each season brings about a different type of sake. In autumn hiyaoroshi is drunk, a sake that has been pasteurised once and aged from the preceding winter. From winter to early spring shiboritate, or fresh sake, is consumed. This is sake that has just been pressed and bottled, often without pasteurisation. In hot summers, a chilled glass of namazake (unpasteurised sake) is most welcome. There are also unfiltered (nigorisake) and sparkling sakes available. The former has a milky texture while the latter tends to be sweet and low in alcohol, though not always.

Being light, smooth and delicate, sake is an ideal companion for many Japanese dishes. Its flavour dissipates rapidly (unlike wine, a long finish is not a positive trait in fine sake), making it a great drink to reset the palate between courses. In combination with fish dishes in particular, sake has the effect of mellowing the fishy taste to create a more balanced flavour.

Argentinian Wine to the Fore

It seems that the further away you go from home, the more exotic the destination becomes. Argentina, located right on the other side of the globe from Singapore, qualifies as one of the lesser visited places, but thanks to gauchos, tango and chimichurri, we know that the country has a rich and unique cultural heritage. During the recent World Cup, Argentina gained further recognition as football fans cheered each goal scored by its star export Lionel Messi. Perhaps Messi himself celebrated his victories with a glass of Leo, a wine born from a joint venture between the Leo Messi Foundation and Bodega Valentin Bianchi.

Celebrity promotion aside, much of the groundwork for the promotion of Argentinian wine in Singapore has been laid by Wines of Argentina (WofA), the umbrella organisation that represents over 200 wineries. For the second year in a row, WofA has held a tasting in Singapore with the aim of showcasing the best the country has to offer. This year saw 22 wineries take part in what was billed as “the largest selection of Argentine wines ever gathered in Singapore”.

While the image of other wine producing countries may be built around affordability (such as Australia), or diversity (such as South Africa), the trump cards for Argentinian wine are its star grape varieties of Malbec and Torrontés. The former, a red grape variety hailing from France, is the most widely planted grape in Argentina. It produces wines that are deeply coloured, with a plush texture and soft, rounded tannins. Alcohol levels tend to be on the higher end of the scale, but this is balanced with a juicy freshness that makes the wines immediately appealing upon release. The vineyards in Argentina tend to be planted at extremely high altitudes that help to maintain the natural acidity of the grapes.

Wines made from Torrontés, a white crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica, fall into two camps. Some producers, like Alta Vista, chose to make a completely dry style, with aromatic and floral notes reminiscent of Gewurtztraminer. I also tasted a Torrontés from Casa Bianchi that had some residual sugar to it, making it more like an off-dry Moscato. “It is a style that goes well with the grape and is easy to sell,” commented the winery’s representative. Knowing which style you’re getting when you buy a bottle of Torrontés can be tricky as the label often doesn’t provide an indication.

At a mere market share of 0.7%, there is clearly much room for Argentinian wines to grow. If you’re looking to try something different, then these are just the wines for you, chock-full of character and with an interesting story to boot. Several of the producers I spoke to were seeking representation, and I can’t help but feel that we are on the verge of an Argentinian wine revolution here in Singapore. Maria Innocenti of Angulo Innocenti Wines commented “We think that even though Singapore is a small market, it is very good for branding.”

Luxury Redefined

You’re going to hear a lot more of the word plénitude. Meaning “the quality or state of being full”, it is now the name of Dom Pérignon’s late-release wine, previously known as Oenothèque. While Dom Pérignon has always been the result of a single vintage, the plénitude editions are staggered releases of the same vintage which have been aged longer by the company in its chalk cellars in Epernay. According to the house, each plénitude represents a window of opportunity where the wine sings higher and stronger, as determined by Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy. The first plénitude is reached after at least seven years of maturation on its lees (the spent yeast cells that are responsible for the biscuity notes of mature champagne). This is embodied in the Dom Pérignon Vintage champagne, a perfect plénitude of harmony.

The Second Plénitude of Dom Pérignon Vintage 1998 was recently revealed in Singapore, representing 16 years of aging. Here the wine reveals a burst of energy, with more focused aromas and a penetrating intensity. The packaging has also been refreshed with a brushed aluminium box and a deep matte label that oozes chic sophistication. Prepare to pay slightly more than double the price of the Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004 to obtain this exceptional wine.

With the new plénitude programme, it is likely that the house will reserve more of its stocks to be released later, resulting in less of the Vintage, or P1, champagnes. The first P3s, from the 1970 and 1982 vintages are expected to be released later this year and represent more than 20 years of maturation on the lees.

The Real House Wines of FIFA World Cup 2014

Bleary-eyed football fans across Singapore are slowly coming back to reality. Tears of joy have been shed, hopes have been dashed, and the National Council for Problem Gambling found out that betting on an ad campaign can be risky business (that’s the real lesson here, folks). New viewership records were set in several countries, a fact that should please sponsors such as Taittinger and Budweiser.

It got me to thinking, what wines best capture the footballers’ defining moments? And so, like those many “What X are You?” quizzes that have been popping up on Facebook, Éclaircissage presents The Real House Wines of FIFA World Cup 2014.

1. Luis Suárez & Chateau Diana Zombie Zin



The World Cup uncovered many talents, but Suárez's talent for post-apocalyptic survival was one of the highlights. This is a guy who knows what he wants and goes for it with teeth bared. This guy is out for blood, and if that's not readily available, then a glass of Zombie Zin will do in a pinch. According to the producer, the flavours of this wine are complex and rich, sporting succulent blackberries, powdered cinnamon, cola and cherry jam. Pairs well with Italian footballers. His transfer to FC Barcelona should help give that team some bite, although critics may find his €94 million fee a bit hard to swallow.

2. Mario Götze & Strut Well-Heeled White


Mario Götze must be feeling on top of the world after scoring the goal that won Germany the World Cup, but even non-football fans would have noticed the stunning blonde locking lips with him immediately after the win. Lingerie model Ann-Kathrin Brömmel bears more than a passing resemblance to Canadian winemaker Strut's Well-Heeled White, made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Schönberger. They're both fresh, stylish, and have stunning legs.
3. Luiz Felipe Scolari and Giant Mistake 


After the drubbing Brazil received at the hands of Germany, where they lost 1-7 on home soil, it was clear that someone had to take the blame. Scolari and his coaching team were the fall guys, even though he leaves with a record of 19 wins, six draws and four defeats. Lets hope that he will be remembered for more than his Giant Mistake.

Angulo Innocenti – Vineyards in the Sky

After tasting through a dozen wines at a recent Wines of Argentina event, I wondered why it had taken me so long to discover the delights of this wine region. Bursting with sumptuous fruit and refreshing acidity, there was a lot to like about these wines. Singapore benefits from a wide selection of wines from countries that can be seen as comfort zones – Bordeaux, Burgundy and Australian; this tasting was a reminder not to ignore wines from other countries lest we miss out on some truly delicious alternatives.

A producer that stood out at the tasting was Angulo Innocenti wines. At the start, the table was pretty much deserted, as this is a small winery and does not yet have distribution in Singapore. The crowd around the table grew rapidly larger as word of mouth spread. Representing the winery was Maria Luz Innocenti, a fourth generation member of the Angulo Innocenti family. The trip to Singapore was one of her longest flights, a 36 hour journey that required multiple transfers between cities. 

Angulo Innocenti is a joint venture between Mariano Innocenti and his uncle Alejandro Angulo. Both families have winemaking roots, the Angulos hailing from the Basque country and the Innocentis from Tuscany. The winery is located in the Uco Valley south of the city of Mendoza, known for producing some of Argentina’s best Malbecs. The vineyards are planted at high altitudes of 1,200 m with the majestic Andes a constant presence in the background. These vineyards in the sky benefit from strong sunlight during the day and cool temperatures at night, a combination that yields richly concentrated fruit and a crisp acidity to the wines. 

This is a very new project – the first wines were bottled as recently as 2010, but they show lots of exuberance and brilliant structure. According to Maria, the fruit is picked and fermented in several batches. The first picking aims to select fruit for its aromatic qualities, while the second and third pickings aim to add structure to the blend. A check on www.wine-searcher.com shows that the wines are distributed only in the United States currently, but if there is any update on local distribution I will mention it here. 

Tasting notes:

Angulo Innocenti Nonni 2013 – A blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, un-oaked. Deep purple in appearance, with youthful primary fruit aromas. The palate shows a soft and supple texture, with generous fruit and soft, rounded tannins. 

Angulo Innocenti Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 – Fermented in a combination of stainless steel tanks and concrete vats using indigenous yeasts. Oak aged for 7 months. Deep ruby with sweet black fruit, lively acidity and high but balanced alcohol. Soft, rounded edges and ready to drink. 

Angulo Innocenti Malbec 2012 – Same winemaking as the Cabernet Sauvignon, but here the wine shows more aromatic notes of violets and rosemary. Very fresh with a generous dollop of cassis fruit and a full body.

Angulo Innocenti Unisono 2011 – A big wine at 15.8% alcohol, but it carries its weight well. The addition of 7% Syrah contributes some spicy notes to the blend, which is mostly made up of Malbec (67%) and Cabernet Franc (26%). Blackberry jam, pepper and a hint of dark chocolate on the palate. Long, warm finish.

What’s Old is New Again – The Wines of Van Volxem

The most memorable moment of Roman Niewodniczanski’s talk came when he flashed a picture of a room of people at a wine auction in Germany. The photo was taken just before World War II and depicted a group of middle-aged Jewish men, a gathering of the movers and shakers in the wine trade. This was possibly the last photo of many of them, as a few months later the Nazis would roll in with their tanks.

What does this have to do with German wine? According to Roman, owner of the Van Volxem winery, the backbone of the German wine trade lay with the Jewish community. Their demise led to the decline of German wine, and in an effort to make their wines more appealing to the masses, producers started to increase the sugar content in their wines, which until then were bone dry. Although sweet German wines can be absolutely thrilling, there are far too many cheap, sugary examples that still flood the supermarkets.

Roman has a vast resource of historical material to draw upon. His father was Tomasz Niewodniczanski, a collector of rare maps and manuscripts. This archive would be invaluable when a young Roman decided to pursue the path of a winemaker. Poring through old viticultural maps, he discerned the top vineyards from pre-war days and made it his goal to obtain them. It helped that his family had considerable wealth – his family has a stake in the German brewery Bitburger, but Roman says that timing was also important. Over a decade ago when he bought the Van Volxem winery, land was still relatively affordable. A deal that would be impossible to replicate today.

Van Volxem is located in the Saar Valley, in the village of Wiltingen. The vineyards, bearing distinguished names such as Braunfels, Klosterberg and Scharzhofberger, are planted with Riesling and a tiny proportion of Pinot Blanc. On a previous visit to Germany, I marvelled at the steepness of the vineyards, which require great dexterity and footballer calves to navigate. Roman says that “when you climb the vineyards, you can eat a lot, drink a lot, and stay in good shape”. The average age of the vines is approximately 40-years old, with the top growth Wiltinger Gottesfuss possessing a rare cache of 130-year old ungrafted vines.

These are some stunning wines; much like the owner they are sharp, precise and energetic. In winemaking, it’s what you don’t do that takes hard work. No fining, filtration, or herbicides, using spontaneous fermentation instead of cultured yeast, lower yields, and hand harvesting instead of using machines. Wine critics have lavished praise on the wines, but Roman himself has doubts about the wine rating system, commenting that they simplify the wines too much and place undue pressure on the producer. His own articulation of how great Riesling should be takes cues from Burgundy (of which Roman is a great fan and collector), and the dry style of wines that existed in pre-war Germany. In trying to raise the reputation of Saar wines back to where they were a hundred years ago, it seems that history has found a champion.

Tasting notes:

Van Volxem Saar Riesling 2011 – Light and crystalline with riveting freshness and notes of white pepper, lime and rain-kissed leaves. A long finish – I was surprised to detect a hint of macadamia nut, perhaps due to lees contact?

Van Volxem Alte Reben Riesling 2012 – From old vines of 50 to 100 years age. Slight spritz. Smoke with pineapple, nectarine and white peach aromas. Lots of extract on the palate, marvellous complexity with each sip revealing new flavours.

Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling 2009 – Lemon, honey and straw on the nose, almost like a great Burgundy before the Riesling character reasserts itself. Medium weight, a lot more texture than other Mosel Rieslings. Delicious nonetheless.

Wein & Vin is the Singapore distributor for Van Volxem. For a complete list of available Van Volxem wines and prices, email sales@weinvin.com.